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This episode is a poignant one. Yes, believe it or not, this is the final episode of HandCut Radio. After three years and more than 50 episodes, we’re hanging up our microphones to pursue new projects. But, before we go, we wanted to respond to one frequent request that’s come up while we’ve made this podcast. A surprising number of you have been in touch to ask whether someone could possibly interview Aleks, and now they have. For this special sign-off episode we asked Paul Croughton, editor-in-chief of the Robb Report to quiz our host on everything we’ve learned in speaking to so many fascinating and successful people for HandCut Radio. A huge thank you to Paul from the whole team here for taking some time out to record this finale episode. We very much hope you enjoy.

We could think of no better way to wrap up this season of HandCut Radio than by revisiting an old guest, Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury and co-owner of Drake’s. We’ve called this episode “Mark Cho’s take on 2022” because a lot of the themes we explore – the ‘casualisation’ of style, the different ways men are reinventing suiting, the danger of hype and the saturation of everyone’s attention – feel very relevant to the moment we find ourselves in. We hope you’ll agree that this is a fitting end to our sixth season. As always, thank you very much indeed for your support and for tuning in. Don’t forget to let us know what you think – leave us a review or drop us a DM. --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796. --- Show Notes: Mark Cho — Website | Instagram [03:12] The Armoury [04:25] The Armoury City Hunter Jacket [04:51] Horological Society of New York [04:56] F.P. Journe [06:03] The Armoury Cotton Sport Chinos [08:03] Dayware Cotton 3 Pocket Blouson [08:04] The Armoury Wool Casentino Road Jacket [08:38] The Armoury’s Spring/Summer 2021 Lookbook [11:42] The Armoury x H. Moser & Cie (HODINKEE) [12:04] H. Moser & Cie [14:10] Elliot Hammer [20:10] The Armoury TV [40:40] BODE [41:02] Edward Sexton [42:04] Lovat Mill

This week we’re bending the rules of our New York style season slightly, by interviewing fellow Brit, Jason Jules. Regardless, his new book Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style is extremely pertinent to this season’s theme, given its concern with mid-century American style. Aleks and Jason explore Black Ivy in this episode, of course, but we also hear about Jason’s fascination for cultural trend-spotting, his passion for jazz music and his admiration for progressive rap culture. It’s a fascinating conversation, this. We hope you enjoy it. --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796. --- Show Notes: Jason Jules — Instagram [05:28] Duffer of St. George [07:58] Lynne Franks [10:12] Honey (magazine, defunct) [15:36] John Coltrane, Giant Steps [16:02] Dizzy Gillespie [18:06] Fred Astaire [19:08] Al Capone [20:16] David Bowie [25:19] The Limelight (club) [26:15] Round Midnight (film) [31:22] Jazzie B [31:26] Norman Jay MBE [31:39] Trevor Nelson [32:52] Stem Player [32:54] Donda 2 [33:40] Frank Ocean [33:42] Tyler, The Creator [33:45] Pharrell Williams [33:47] Nigo [33:47] ‘I know NIGO!’ (album) [36:16] Virgil Abloh [37:10] Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style (book) [39:00] Steve Urkel [43:13] Summer of Love [43:47] Long, hot summer of 1967 [51:28] ‘The Black Ivy Edit’ by Drake’s & Jason Jules [52:08] Teal Madder Silk Fully Lined Bridle Leather Club Belt

Imagine that you’re a young, 20-something clothing designer, and you’re self-funding the growth of your label. It’s going well and you’ve invested heavily in your next collection. Then, picture an overnight flash-flood, a warehouse filled with more than three feet of water, and half that collection being written off. Peter Middleton, the founder of Wythe, found himself in that very position less than a year ago. We wanted to talk to him about what the rollercoaster of building a young brand is like, and how he bounced back from this huge challenge. We also explore the formula that’s making Wythe an up-and-coming American menswear gem, and how Peter’s background in textile design informs everything he does. --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796. --- Show Notes: Wythe — Website | Instagram [07:42] L.L. Bean [13:21] MRKET [31:38] Rick Owens

This is the first of two ‘three years on’ episodes we’re featuring this season, with American brands that featured on HandCut Radio in the podcast’s infancy. Regular listeners will know that we’ve always admire Nicholas Ragosta and Agyesh Madan at Stòffa, and their work in building a luxury brand that’s as responsible as it is beautifully curated. In this conversation, we deep dive into how they’ve evolved the business over the course of the pandemic; introducing an impressive made-to-order e-commerce proposition, new limited edition collaborative “editions” of special products, and we touch on some of their pioneering responsible textile research, too. --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796. --- Show Notes: Stòffa — Website | Instagram [29:57] 11.11 [43:50] Edition 002 [44:24] Edition 003 (with Landon Metz) [44:25] In Conversation: Landon Metz

This week HandCut Radio is coming to you from inside the pastel pink walls of F.E. Castleberry’s Greenwich Village atelier, as Aleks sits down with the brand’s founder, Fred Castleberry. Known for his creative, fashion-forward take on made-to-measure tailoring, and the dreamlike aesthetic of his campaigns, Fred has created a cult-brand with a razor-sharp point of view. He tells us about his grounding in design at Ralph Lauren, how he creates characters for all his campaigns, and why he sees clothes as conduits for different parts of his identity. We hope you enjoy listening, please do leave us a review if you like what you hear! --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796. --- Show Notes: F.E. Castleberry — Instagram | Website [03:37] Rugby Ralph Lauren [04:54] Unabashedly Prep covered on GQ [17:32] ‘The heist of Dog with Lipstick’ Campaign [20:13] Wes Anderson [21:52] Schott ‘The Perfecto®’ Biker Jacket [24:16] Doomed & FamousL Selected Obituaries (book) [27:30] The Beatles: Get Back (Documentary) [30:46] Help! I’m becoming a Sloane Ranger (Financial Times) [31:55] BODE [37:09] Celine [40:28] F.E. Castleberry striped rugby [40:39] St. John Womenswear [43:08] Björn Borg [43:17] David Bowie [43:21] Jacques Cousteau

Fun fact: when we decided to visit New York for this season of HandCut Radio, one name came up time and again: “you’ve gotta speak to Ouigi”, “oh, you’re headed to NYC, well then, make sure you speak to Ouigi…” So, we did. Ouigi Theodore is a pillar of the NYC style scene, and the founder of much-loved store, The Brooklyn Circus. He speaks to Aleks about his pre-menswear career as a party promoter, explains why he’s building a community-driven “100 Year Plan”, and he talks about why life is all about how you dress to show up. --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796. --- Show Notes: Ouigi Theodore — Instagram | Website [01:28] The Brooklyn Circus [03:36] Stevie Wonder [03:39] Earth, Wind & Fire [04:07] Brian Davis on HandCut Radio [04:58] Stony Brook University [11:46] PROJECT, New York [13:38] Fabolous (rapper) [14:12] Evisu [17:37] Opening Ceremony [29:11] Mobb Deep [29:56] Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style (book) [30:02] Street Etiquette [35:13] Andre 3000 [47:32] Jason Jules

“The clothes that we think of as elitist came from a place of fun and irreverence,” says Jack Carlson, founder of New York based indie brand, Rowing Blazers. Over the past six years, Carlson and his team have democratised the clothes most associated with stuffy Ivy League and Oxbridge sporting institutions, giving them a new lease of life. We talk about this at length this week, as Aleks explores just how Jack has built a brand that feels fresh and inclusive as opposed to elitist and stuffy. Thanks for tuning in as always, we hope you enjoy listening.  --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796. --- Show Notes: Rowing Blazers — Website | Instagram [09:35] College of Arms [13:35] Rowing Blazers by Jack Carlson [book] [19:18] Barbour x Rowing Blazers [20:42] FILA x Rowing Blazers [20:43] Sperry x Rowing Blazers [20:48] Harry’s Bar x Rowing Blazers [27:28] The Jackal Magazine [defunct] [31:42] Paul Winston; ‘Chipp Off The Old Block’ [article] [33:37] Brendon Babenzien on HandCut Radio [34:19] Vineyard Vines [41:14] Rowing Blazers x Babar [43:28] Rowing Blazers Medieval Manuscripts [44:08] ‘Seiko’s New Collab With Rowing Blazers Is A Stroke Of Genius’ [article] [45:11] Nike Dunk Low Georgetown [46:07] Rowing Blazers x Seiko ‘dad hat’

Welcome to Season Six of HandCut Radio, our New York City Special. We’re kicking off the season with a creative heavyweight we’ve wanted to meet for years: Brendon Babenzien. Aleks speaks to the co-founder of Noah and creative director of J.Crew Men’s about why he thinks Preppy Style has been hijacked, how the Noah design team create for individuals rather than trends, and why the fashion industry’s attitude of “it’s not personal” needs wholesale change. He also hints at what we can expect from his first collection for J.Crew Men’s, which will be unveiled in the autumn. If you enjoy listening, don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. HandCut Radio is proud to be sponsored by Thomas Mason, an historic mill that’s been supplying famous designers, shirtmakers and tailors with world class shirting fabrics since 1796. --- Show Notes: Brendon Babenzien — Instagram | Website [02:47] Noah [05:49] “What to Watch: Is Streetwear Becoming Preppy?” [article] [10:36] Ryuichi Sakamoto [11:27] J Crew [21:47] Barbour [22:06] Supreme NYC [33:29] Pervert Clothing [36:12] Thrasher Magazine [36:40] Red Hot Chili Peppers [39:20] “Less is more: meet New York’s mindful menswear makers” [article]

This week is the final episode in our four-part mini-season with Portman Marylebone. Ending on a high, Aleks sits down with Charlie Casely-Hayford, the owner and creative director at esteemed British menswear brand, Casely-Hayford London. Fellow fashionistas will doubtless know that Charlie inherited the brand from his father, the late, great, Joe Casely Hayford OBE, who sadly passed away in 2019 and was one of the most influential British designers of his generation. Today, Charlie is continuing to evolve the business in his father’s stead and speaks to Aleks about how the brand continues to be informed ‘by a conversation between father and son’. We also touch on the brand’s deft blending of high fashion and tailoring craft and explore how Charlie finds inspiration in both high and low culture – and everything in-between. If you enjoy listening, don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us on Apple Podcasts, or subscribe to HCR on Spotify – either action helps to boost us up the podcast charts and is very much appreciated by the HCR team! --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. This episode is produced in partnership with Portman Marylebone, an elegant central London retail destination that is home to many of the city’s most characterful restaurants, galleries and independent fashion brands. Portman Marylebone has been meticulously maintained by the Portman Estate for just under 500 years. --- Show Notes: Charlie Casely-Hayford — Instagram | Website Portman Marylebone — Instagram | Website [03:45] FT | How to wear a suit now [08:20] Dazed & Confused Magazine [08:22] I-D Magazine [08:48] Virgil Abloh [08:54] Abloh-isms (book) [09:35] Gieves & Hawkes [22:24] Central Saint Martins [22:58] The Courtauld [29:03] ACNE Studios [30:38] Mark Cho on HandCut Radio [31:38] Jazziunf on Spotify

This week, Aleks sits down with Olivia Francis, the founder of luxury men’s underwear and loungewear brand, Hamilton & Hare. Olivia is on a campaign to elevate men’s undies, and to get men thinking about the importance of their underwear drawer in a very different way; valuing quality, longevity and comfort every bit as highly as you would in a pair of shoes or a handmade suit. We hear about her decision to leave advertising to establish her own business, talk about the highs and lows of life as a sole founder, and explore the art of making boxer shorts without compromise. Thank you as always for tuning in, we hope you enjoy the episode! Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us on Apple Podcasts, or subscribe to HCR on Spotify, either action helps to boost us up the podcast charts. --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. This episode is produced in partnership with Portman Marylebone, an elegant central London retail destination that is home to many of the city’s most characterful restaurants, galleries and independent fashion brands. Portman Marylebone has been meticulously maintained by the Portman Estate for just under 500 years. --- Show Notes: Hamilton & Hare — Instagram | Website Portman Marylebone — Instagram | Website [04:20] M&C Saatchi [06:20] SmileTrain Charity [06:24] Mary McCartney [19:48] Hamilton & Hare Wedding Boxer Short [27:02] Walpole Brands of Tomorrow [28:07] The Jackal Magazine [now defunct] [28:30] Aleks’ Articles on Walpole [28:58] Bremont [28:59] Orlebar Brown

This week Aleks sits down with Paul Simons, co-owner of the iconic Ivy League style destination, John Simons on Chiltern Street in Marylebone. In the ‘60s, John was the ‘OG’ importer and populariser of the American Ivy League look in the UK and over the past five decades or so, John Simons has built up a cult following as a preppy menswear destination. Today, Paul manages the business day-to-day, and we sat down together to hear the brand’s story from the horses’s mouth. We chat about John’s early years in business and the significance of the Ivy look, Paul’s experience of growing up as an ‘Ivy kid’ and we explore the cultural differences between American and English Ivy style too. Follow us on Instagram @handcutradio, and get involved in the conversation. Please do rate and review us on Apple Podcasts too, or subscribe to HCR on Spotify — either action helps to boost us up the podcast charts and we really do appreciate the support! --- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, the London based creative office of James Allen. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd. This episode is produced in partnership with Portman Marylebone, an elegant central London retail destination that is home to many of the city’s most characterful restaurants, galleries and independent fashion brands. Portman Marylebone has been meticulously maintained by the Portman Estate for just under 500 years. --- Show Notes: John Simons — Instagram | Website Portman Marylebone — Instagram | Website [05:40] Lee Morgan on Spotify [07:58] And So Farewell, The Ivy Shop (article) [10:36] John Simons, A Modernist (film) [10:44] Jason Jules [11:00] Paul Weller [13:10] ‘The Knowledge’ of London [14:07] Cadenhead’s (whisky shop), Chiltern Street [15:25] Docksides [15:30] Russell Athletic [16:27] Paraboot [16:40] Steely Dan [21:28] Kevin Rowland [21:53] The man who dressed the mods (article) [23:48] Swiss M70 Came Military Jacket [31:09] Harrington Jacket (Baracuta G9) [32:15] Ryan O’Neil [33:00] Carhartt