Advertise on podcast: Uphill Athlete Podcast

Steve House sits down with Dr. Marco Altini — data scientist, physiologist, and founder of HRV4Training — for a deep-dive into one of the most misunderstood tools in endurance athletics: heart rate variability. With over 50 peer-reviewed papers to his name, Dr. Altini brings rare scientific rigor to a space crowded with oversimplified wearable metrics. The conversation opens by challenging the industry's obsession with single-number readiness scores, which Dr. Altini argues dilute nuanced physiological signals into deterministic assumptions that don't reflect the complexity of the human body.   The episode unpacks the fundamentals of HRV — what it actually measures, why morning is the optimal measurement window for endurance athletes, and how to interpret it as a marker of stress response rather than performance capacity. Steve and Marco also cover hardware accuracy across chest straps, optical sensors, and phone cameras; HRV research at altitude; and the broader question of how biometric data should support — not replace — the athlete's own sense of feel. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

This is the full, unedited version of Steve House's conversation with Peter Metcalf — extended and running longer than the standard episode release. Before Black Diamond Equipment became the most trusted name in mountain sports, there was Peter Metcalf: a teenager from Long Island hitchhiking to the Gunks every weekend, a dogeared copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills on his nightstand, and a conviction that the mountains were where he belonged. In this conversation, Steve and Peter trace the full arc of that conviction — from his early apprenticeship years through a harrowing 13-day first ascent on Mount Hunter, where hallucinations, extreme cold, and frostbite tested everything he had. That experience forged a lesson Peter would call on again in 1989, when he organized a team of fellow climbers to buy bankrupt Chouinard Equipment out of collapse — using retirement savings, high-interest loans, and a shared sense of purpose — and rebuild it into Black Diamond. What emerges is a portrait of someone who applied the logic of alpinism to every domain of his life: patient apprenticeship, commitment without a visible outcome, and the willingness to keep moving when the only way to live is forward. This is a story about climbing — and about becoming. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

In this special International Women's Month episode, host Chantelle Robitaille sits down with coach Alexa Hasman to explore what it truly means to train as a female mountain athlete. Together they walk through the physiological realities of each major life phase — from the menstrual cycle and pregnancy to postpartum recovery and menopause — not as limitations, but as distinct training phases requiring smart adaptation. Anchored by the guiding principle that "ability is the measure of permission," they challenge women to reject the noise of external opinion and cultivate a deep, data-informed understanding of their own bodies. The conversation covers practical strategies at every stage: cycle-tracking tools and red flags to watch for; trimester-by-trimester training modifications during pregnancy; the often-overlooked realities of diastasis recti and pelvic floor recovery postpartum; and why strength training becomes non-negotiable during perimenopause and beyond. Alexa and Chantelle make a compelling case that women's athletic identity is not fixed to any single phase — it evolves — and that with the right coaching, community, and self-advocacy, female athletes can pursue big mountain goals at every age.

Coaches Chantelle and Alexa make the case that strength training is non-negotiable for female mountain athletes. They debunk the myth that lifting makes women bulky, distinguish between hypertrophy and functional strength, and walk through the three phases of strength programming: max strength, muscular endurance, and maintenance. Special attention is given to eccentric strength, an often-overlooked element critical for the downhill demands of mountaineering, trail running, and skiing. Learn how to get started as a beginner, common training mistakes, smart recovery practices, and how to measure progress beyond the weight on the bar. Get practical, accessible options for fitting strength work into a busy life. No matter your experience level or life stage, the best time to start is now. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

Dr. Christine Theodorovics — Viennese-born insurance CEO, doctoral researcher, and accomplished recreational mountaineer — joins Steve House for a wide-ranging conversation about what the mountains teach us that the boardroom cannot. Christine's story spans a humble upbringing in Vienna's public housing, a near-fatal attempt on Huayna Potosí with zero acclimatization, 25 years of quietly ticking off all 48 Swiss 4,000-meter peaks alongside a demanding executive career, and doctoral research interviewing 13 expedition leaders aged 39 to 97 across eight countries. What she found surprised her: at the end of every mountaineering life, what mattered most wasn't summits — it was the human connection forged along the way. The conversation moves fluidly between expedition leadership and corporate governance, Viktor Frankl and intrinsic motivation, quota politics and the permission women give themselves to lead. Christine argues that accountability can never be truly shared, that freedom requires a well-defined frame, and that the mountains remain one of the few places where positional authority dissolves entirely — replaced by demonstrated competence and trust earned in the field. A self-described "curious" person who has financed every step of her own path, Christine offers a perspective that is equal parts rigorous and warm, and thoroughly earned.

In this science-focused episode, host Steve House sits down with Dr. Patrycja Jonetzko, a cardiothoracic anesthetist and high-altitude medicine expert, to explore the fundamental mechanics of gas exchange and oxygen delivery in mountain athletes. Dr. Jonetzko breaks down the journey of oxygen from atmosphere to working muscle, explaining the oxygen cascade, the critical role of partial pressure versus oxygen concentration, and why altitude performance is diffusion-limited rather than VO2 max-limited. The conversation illuminates why the body's adaptation to hypoxia is far more complex than simply producing more red blood cells. The discussion moves beyond basic physiology into practical application, covering breathing techniques like pressure breathing, the importance of hydration for gas diffusion, and why slower, deeper breaths are more efficient at altitude than rapid shallow breathing. Dr. Jonetzko advocates for reframing "acute mountain sickness" as "altitude adaptation syndrome"—recognizing that most symptoms represent normal physiological adaptation rather than pathology. She emphasizes that while genetic factors play a significant role in altitude performance, pre-acclimatization strategies including hypoxic tents and intermittent hypoxic training can meaningfully prepare athletes for high-altitude objectives. Drawing from both her clinical intensive care work and decades of Himalayan expedition medicine, Dr. Jonetzko reveals that success at extreme altitude ultimately comes down to energy management and self-awareness. The ability to maintain physiological efficiency while operating within narrow margins—controlling breathing rate, managing fear responses, and reading subtle body signals—often distinguishes those who summit from those who don't, regardless of baseline fitness levels. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

In this concluding conversation, Mark Twight takes Steve into the harrowing heart of the 1988 Nanga Parbat expedition—four climbers clipped to a single ice screw, buried under avalanche debris for thirty minutes on the world's largest mountain wall. The vivid recounting reveals how total commitment to an ideal can blind climbers to approaching storms, yet paradoxically, that same commitment becomes the forge where transformation happens. The conversation traces Mark's evolution from elite alpinist to founder of Gym Jones, where training fighters, military operators, and eventually Hollywood's Spartans became his vehicle for service. What began as "grad school for himself" shifted into duty—a way to repay the society that had given him freedom to pursue his obsessions. Through years training actors for films like 300 and Wonder Woman, Mark applied the same all-or-nothing intensity that defined his climbing, discovering that accountability to a creative partner mirrors the trust demanded on a mountain face. When Steve asks about the through-line connecting all versions of Mark—the nihilistic Dr. Doom, the alpinist, the trainer, the writer—Mark distills it simply: chasing human potential, first for himself, then wanting it for others. The episode closes with Mark reading Bukowski's "No Leaders, Please"—a meditation on reinvention that has meant different things across different chapters of his life, now a celebration of constant growth rather than a confrontational manifesto. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

In this first installment of a two-part conversation, Steve House sits down with legendary alpinist Mark Twight for one of Voice of the Mountains' most anticipated episodes. This deeply personal dialogue - the show's first in-person recording - reunites two climbers whose friendship spans more than three decades. The conversation opens with Twight's 2019 book Refuge and his struggle to redefine himself after stepping away from elite climbing. As the 25th anniversary of their landmark Slovak Direct climb approaches, they examine what that 60-hour nonstop ascent of Denali meant then and what it reveals now about ambition, limits, and the courage to walk away. Twight shares candidly about the costs of single-minded pursuit: failed relationships, financial instability, and the brutal honesty required to assess one's own decline. He traces his evolution from uncompromising soloist to gym owner and trainer, including his work preparing actors for films like 300and Man of Steel. Most powerfully, Twight reflects on the deaths of friends and mentors - Mugs Stump, Jeff Lowe, Scott Backes - and the weight of survivor's guilt. He and Steve explore what it means to remain open to relationships despite knowing the potential for loss. Part 1 ends on a cliffhanger: the setup for Twight's harrowing survival story on Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, where four climbers hung from a single ice screw while buried by avalanche. That story continues in Part 2. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

Most endurance athletes don’t fail because they lack motivation—they fail because their goals are vague, unrealistic, or disconnected from their daily behaviors. In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, Steve House is joined by coaches Chantelle Robitaille and Alexa Hasman to unpack what actually makes goal-setting work over the long term. The conversation breaks down the critical differences between outcome, performance, and process goals, and explains why process-driven systems (not motivation) are the foundation of sustainable progress. The trio explores how identity, accountability, life constraints, and long-term planning shape athletic success, especially for non-professional athletes balancing work, family, and training. Listeners will learn how to build goals inside a realistic training structure, avoid common psychological traps like impostor syndrome and comparison, and design systems that hold up when motivation fades. The episode closes with a practical framework for reviewing past seasons, setting meaningful goals, and choosing the right level of support. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

John Winsor has lived many lives: setting an FKT on Kilimanjaro before the term existed, surviving an avalanche in the Selkirks, building and selling companies, serving on Black Diamond's board, and now researching organizational innovation at Harvard. In this conversation with Steve House, he traces the thread connecting these experiences—what he calls "the explorer's mindset." Whether pioneering bike-sharing programs as an ad agency or asking "why not?" instead of "why?" in academic research, Winsor has spent his career venturing beyond the horizon and bringing discoveries back to his community. The conversation moves into profound territory when Steve asks about Winsor's wife Bridget, who struggled with late-onset bipolar disorder and took her own life after 32 years of marriage. Drawing on Stephen Colbert's perspective about experiencing the full spectrum of human emotion, Winsor reframes tragedy not as something to be walled off but as an honor to witness and integrate. This openness extends to his recent prostate cancer diagnosis—another experience he approaches with curiosity rather than fear, asking "what does this feel like?" rather than retreating from difficulty. The episode culminates in Winsor's surprising answer to how he wants to be remembered: he doesn't. Inspired by Hindu traditions, he longs to become "a ghost in the machine"—present, curious, connected, but freed from the burden of maintaining identity or legacy. It's a vision of equanimity that, as Steve notes, doesn't contradict the desire to bend the arc of history, but somehow completes it. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

Steve House welcomes newly appointed Uphill Athlete Coach Gabe Joyes for a comprehensive look at the 2025 trail running season. Gabe brings deep expertise as both a competitive trail runner and race director, having organized Wyoming's Sinks Canyon Chill Races and Run the Red Desert for nearly a decade. The conversation covers the year's marquee events: Western States 100, where Abby Hall and Caleb Olson claimed victories; Hard Rock 100, marked by Katie Scheid's stunning course record; and UTMB, where Ruth Croft became the first woman to win the UTMB/CCC/OCC triple crown and Tom Evans finally claimed victory after two previous DNFs. They also discuss the World Mountain and Trail Running Championships, the rise of 200-mile distances, and the inspiring presence of athletes in their seventies and eighties still finishing hundred-milers. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

Steve sits down with longtime climbing partner Scott Backes for a conversation that moves far beyond typical adventure storytelling. Scott traces his path from rebellious Minnesota teenager to respected amateur alpinist, describing his 1980 baptism in the Canadian Rockies—soloing the West Shoulder Direct on Andromeda, climbing new routes on Mount Temple, and surviving desperate bivouacs on Kitchener's North Face. Rather than move west like most ambitious climbers, he deliberately stayed in Minneapolis, unwilling to surrender his identity to climbing's tribal pressures. The conversation takes an unflinching turn when Scott discusses growing up with a narcissistic father whose contempt taught him to hate himself. He credits climbing's hero's journey—and discovering he could trust and love his partners—with his path toward self-acceptance. This leads to what he considers his greatest contribution: normalizing emotional vulnerability among male alpinists. He was the first man outside Steve's family to tell him "I love you," helping transform the culture of their tight-knit circle. Both reflect on the challenge of returning from transcendent mountain experiences to ordinary life, and on their 2000 ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali. Steve recalls a pivotal granite pitch climbed in darkness where he felt, for the first time, genuinely connected to others in something "almost religious." When asked how he wants to be remembered, Scott's answer is direct: as the person who brought the word love to hard-ass alpinists, and as an imperfect person who tried to understand himself. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

Steve House sits down with Kyle Lefkoff, a rare figure who has lived at the intersection of serious alpinism and venture capital for nearly four decades. From discovering his "mutant gene" for rock climbing as a kid in Atlanta to surviving K2's deadliest season in 1986, from co-founding Array Biopharma (acquired by Pfizer for $12 billion) to serving as founding chairman of AIARE, Kyle shares how the same principles—luck, timing, patience, and pattern recognition—govern success on both big walls and in boardrooms. The conversation explores his philosophy of "where matters," his belief that geography shapes who we can become, and why he chose Boulder as the terrain where he could develop both his athletic and entrepreneurial potential. Kyle reflects on "Slater's Law" (the climb isn't over until the ropes are on the ground), the parallels between powder days and market momentum, and his ultimate legacy: building bridges—between climbers and guides, entrepreneurs and investors, communities and their mountains. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

From the UA Pod Archives! We thought it was fitting to share one of our most popular episodes again in time for the holidays - updated with a new intro from Steve House, be sure to listen in! "In a special holiday episode, Alyssa sits down with Uphill Athlete’s new registered dietician, Alyssa Leib. The two tackle listener questions about fueling well through the holidays and the unique challenges athletes face. The questions range from how to handle comments about your eating habits to staying on track with training and nutrition during the holidays. RD Alyssa offers advice on adding, not subtracting with your nutrition choices as well as tips on approaching potentially stressful holiday meals. The two wrap with RD Alyssa’s words of wisdom including, eating consistently throughout the day, and practicing compassion and flexibility during the holidays. Listen along for great advice to help you through the stress of the holidays. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]

In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Steve House and dietitian Alyssa Leib tackle the challenge of choosing safe, effective supplements in a largely unregulated industry. Alyssa explains that the supplement market operates as "the Wild West" with minimal FDA oversight, meaning products can contain banned substances, heavy metals like lead and cadmium, or nothing at all. She emphasizes the critical importance of third-party testing, recommending athletes look for NSF or Informed Sport certifications to ensure products are safe and accurately labeled. The discussion covers three essential questions before buying supplements: Does it actually work? Is it safe? Does it fit your budget? Alyssa provides specific recommendations including whey protein isolate over concentrate and creatine monohydrate as the gold standard form, while cautioning that popular supplements like collagen lack strong scientific support for joint health. She stresses that no supplement can replace adequate sleep, proper nutrition, and sufficient protein intake, and advises athletes taking medications to consult pharmacists about potential interactions before adding supplements to their regimen. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]