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Fancy a scented tour through unexpected florals (via toasted seeds and cool green leaves), autumnal sunsets in California, walled gardens where a warrior goddess might stroll, impeccably tailored heritage, and a gloriously gilded pop fantasy? Step right this way, because this week Suzy & Nicola are discussing perfumes for taking a calm breath, for making an entrance, for leaning into your own glow, and the pleasure of simply choosing the perfect scent to suit the moment. They’re also asking whether fragrance can influence mood, considering solid perfume in a new jelly-like form, and finding plenty to discuss in a line-up that moves from poised and polished to maximalist, sensual and gloriously escapist… Let’s dive in! Dries Van Noten Velvet Violet Violet is so often treated as a sugary, powdery floral that it is genuinely refreshing to find it approached from a greener, more fashion-conscious angle. Here, the leaf is the real focus, giving a cool, woody freshness that feels crisp and modern rather than cosmetic. Pink pepper adds a fizzy brightness, then the texture shifts. Toasted sesame is nutty and savoury, barley brings a softly cereal-like warmth, and vetiver with tonka bean leaves a smooth, earthy-gourmand glow on skin. The effect is tactile and surprisingly chic, with a lovely tension between freshly crushed green leaves and the almost skin-like warmth of toasted seeds. This is violet for those who usually avoid violet, and a quietly unusual choice for anyone who likes their florals with a little friction. Notes: Violet leaf, pink pepper, sesame, barley, vetiver, tonka bean. L’Objet Alento Named for a word that can mean breath, spirit, encouragement and vital energy, this is a perfume conceived as an olfactory pause. The opening is bright with juicy orange, though aldehydes give it a sparkling, airy lift that stops it from becoming too obviously fruity. Orange blossom flows through the heart with a fresh, creamy radiance, before lactones, vanilla, ambergris and white musks soften into a cocooning, close-to-skin finish. It feels less like a perfume that announces itself and more like a gentle return to oneself. There is a luminous cleanliness to it, but enough milkiness, warmth and musk to make it feel sensual rather than merely fresh. A lovely choice for anyone craving comfort that still has a little glow about it. Notes: Top: Orange, aldehydes Heart: Orange blossom, fresh floral notes, lactones Base: Vanilla, ambergris, white musks L’Objet Ojai This begins with the imagined warmth of a California afternoon, when the air is bright with citrus and green things, and the earth has started to hold onto the day’s heat. Bergamot, a green note and cardamom have a breezy, aromatic freshness, before the mango comes through with a rich, softly tropical glow. Bulgarian rose and saffron lend colour and texture, making the fruit feel more nuanced than merely juicy. As it settles, patchouli, frankincense and vanilla bring a dusky, ambery depth that is far more soulful than a straightforward fruity floral. It smells like sun on skin, fruit warmed on the branch, and a trace of incense carried through an open window. This is for days when a perfume needs to offer an instant sense of escape, while still feeling grounded and wearable. Notes: Top: Bergamot, green note, cardamom Heart: Mango, Bulgarian rose, saffron Base: Patchouli, frankincense, vanilla Boadicea the Victorious Andraste This is a full, dramatic walled garden scent, where hot brick, flowering vines, crushed greenery and aromatic herbs all seem to release their perfume at once. It has the kind of lavish, maximalist construction that Boadicea the Victorious does so well, combining cool eucalyptus and smoky Lapsang Souchong tea with saffron, thyme and a cascade of flowers. Honeysuckle, wisteria, jasmine and rose create an all-consuming floral richness, while powdered orris, ambrette, leather, fumed woods and vetiver darken the edges. There is a sense of strength to it, but it does not feel remotely austere. This is floral drama with a leather-lined, resinous, slightly feral undercurrent. It has the atmosphere of a garden after a storm, when everything smells wetter, greener, hotter and more alive. Wear it when you want perfume to feel like a form of armour, a flourish of theatricality, and a reminder to take up rather more space. Notes: Eucalyptus, Lapsang Souchong tea, saffron, thyme, honeysuckle, wisteria, jasmine, Lady Emma Hamilton rose, citrus notes, orris, ambrette, leather, fumed woods, vetiver. Huntsman x Truefitt & Hill Cologne The idea here is understated luxury, and it does that most convincingly by avoiding the kind of brash, traditional barbershop clichés one might expect. The opening has a bright, aromatic polish from bergamot, lemon, cardamom, pink pepper, saffron and elemi, feeling brisk but never sharp. Then the rose and violet arrive, adding soft floral refinement, while tobacco absolute gives the heart a gentle smokiness and richness. Vanilla pod, guaiac wood, tonka bean and cedarwood create a warm, smooth finish that gives this more depth than a conventional cologne. It is elegant without being fussy, and classic without smelling as though it has been preserved behind glass. The overall impression is of someone beautifully dressed, completely at ease and not remotely interested in making a fuss about it. Notes: Top: Bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper, saffron, lemon, elemi Heart: Damask rose, tobacco absolute, violet, petitgrain Base: Vanilla pod, guaiac wood, tonka bean, cedarwood Britney Spears Goddess Fantasy If fragrance is sometimes about serious artistry, it can also be about joy, memory, confidence and indulging the part of oneself that would like to feel a little more fabulous. This goes wholeheartedly into that mood. Golden mango, mandarin and bergamot bring juicy, sunlit sweetness, while jasmine absolute, Turkish rose and orange blossom give the heart a lush, glamorous floral bloom. The dry-down is where the Fantasy family resemblance really comes through. Benzoin, vanilla buttercream and gilded musk create a warm, creamy sweetness that feels designed for unapologetic pleasure. It is bright, pretty and noticeably gourmand, but the citrus opening stops it becoming too dense. Think glossy lips, warm skin, golden light and the sheer morale boost of deciding that one is, in fact, the main character. Notes: Top: Golden mango, mandarin, bergamot Heart: Jasmine absolute, Turkish rose, orange blossom Base: Warm benzoin, vanilla buttercream, gilded musk Joonbyrd Mood Jellies These portable water-based solid fragrances are intended as little mood rituals, with each jelly pairing a different scent profile with Bacillus ferment and neuroscience-led wellbeing claims. It is always worth holding such claims lightly, because scent is personal and context-dependent. Yet there is something rather charming about matching fragrance to a desired state of mind, particularly when the format is so playful and easy to carry around. Bliss Apple gives this a crisp, cheerful lift, jasmine brings a soft floral bloom, and woods with labdanum provide a mellow, gently resinous warmth. It sounds like the most easy-going of the trio, designed for a comforting, sunny sort of uplift. Notes: Apple, jasmine, woods, labdanum. Confidence Peach and saffron make for a warm, radiant opening, while oak moss and ambroxan lend dry, musky structure. This has the most polished, skin-scent-like profile of the three, with enough fruitiness to feel friendly but enough moss and woody amber character to provide presence. Notes: Peach, saffron, oak moss, ambroxan. Peace Violet and orris create a soft, powdery hush, while vetiver and cedarwood add rooty calm. Cacao brings a subtle darkness and comfort, making this the most introspective choice. It feels made for the end of a busy day, when one wants a small personal pause rather than a big perfume performance. Notes: Violet, vetiver, cacao, cedarwood, orris. Also mentioned: Buy the just-published third print issue of On The Scent magazine here! https://www.onthescentmedia.com/shop And read the news and blog here: https://www.onthescentmedia.com/news

What does a fragrance feel like? This week, Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn are following their noses into the wonderfully tactile world of perfumery, where a scent can suggest velvet brushing the skin, the smooth swish of nylon, or the crumbly warmth of freshly sliced cake. There’s oudh as soft as autumnal sun-warmed suede, a mineral hush reminiscent of earth after rain, and an aromatic breeze that arrives wind-whipped and bracing before settling into comfort. These perfumes invite you to think beyond notes alone. Some wrap around you; others seem to lift you into cool, open air or draw you into the glow of a city after dark. Join Suzy and Nicola for an episode devoted to sumptuous scents you can almost reach out and touch... The fragrances discussed in this episode are: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Velvet Mood Extrait Velvet warmed by desert sun is the irresistible idea here. Peach skin, delicate suede and deep oud wood unfold in a slow, enveloping caress – soft, sensuous and richly textured, with a sillage that seems to ripple across dunes beneath a starry sky. D.S. & Durga Ain’t That Sweet? The blissful comfort of a freshly sliced cake, with no apology for its sweetness. Cinnamon lends a spicy dusting, fresh floral lily keeps things lifted, and creamy vanilla melts into the skin, leaving a decadent trail that lingers like the last delicious crumb. Pigmentarium Aereo Airy yet grounding, Aereo feels like finding a quiet moment after rain. Soft, mineral cashmeran suggests warm soil, pink pepper brings a flicker of clarity, and soothing myrrh anchors it all in a clean, contemplative stillness. Aesop Unforeseen Aer Wind-whipped and refreshing at first, this aromatic fougère brings rugged, mineral heights to mind. Geranium, lavandin and rosemary create its cool rush of air, while nutmeg lends a textured warmth as the scent settles into comfort. Prada Olfactories Nylon Noir Prada’s iconic nylon becomes something you can almost feel against your skin. Luminous jasmine gives way to a clean, enveloping nylon accord, before musk emerges in the dry-down, leaving a sleek, softly polished trail. Prada Olfactories Troubled Midnight A city after dark, where hot pavement meets cold air and light flares against shadow. Smoky incense and patchouli bring depth to this warm amber-musk, while a date accord adds a softly fruity glow – satin darkness in perfume form.

Suzy & Nicola are back for part two of their Pitti Fragranze roundup, continuing their deep-dive into the perfume launches, houses and ideas that made this year’s Florence fair feel so full of possibility. Having attended Pitti Fragranze for thirteen years, Suzy felt this was one of the most exciting editions yet. Alongside the return of classical perfume structures reinterpreted for contemporary tastes, she noticed a growing confidence in brands drawing upon personal heritage, local materials, food culture, landscape, ritual and memory. In this episode, the pair explore some of the fragrances that most vividly expressed those stories. From a Chinese-French house capturing the transient scent of sun-dried osmanthus, to Korean brands evoking fire-charred ingredients, graceful calligraphy and fine-dining balances of flavour, this episode travels widely through fragrance’s newest creative terrain. There is also a decadent, night-time gourmand journey through Bandra in Mumbai; a woody incense scent from Reserve en Afrique; and two beautifully emotional creations from Italian poet-perfumer Meo Fusciuni. Listen for a perfume that smells of roasted chestnuts, fermented tea and Korean seaweed crisp; a vivid, herbal peach; a “new century” Parma violet growing in a cold spring garden; and a cocoa-rich love story that charts the bitterness and sweetness of heartbreak… https://fragranze.pittimmagine.com/en/events-calendar Reserve en Afrique – WoodooReserve en Afrique’s Woodoo is a woody, resinous composition built around the warm, meditative pull of incense, balsams and dry woods. It opens with ginger and olibanum, giving the fragrance both brightness and a slightly peppery, ceremonial character. Labdanum, iris and white flowers arrive at the heart, adding a soft, ambery texture: floral, but shadowed by resin and a certain velvety darkness. The base of musk, benzoin, cedar, tonka bean and cypriol brings a long-lasting warmth, with dry woods, sweet balsams and a gently smoky earthiness. The name suggests ritual, mystery and a connection to wood, smoke and spirituality, and the composition seems to play with all those ideas. This is not necessarily a loud fragrance, but one that gradually develops its presence on skin: incense-lit, softly floral, smooth with tonka, and grounded by a woody, mineral base. Reserve en Afrique draws inspiration from African landscapes, stories and olfactory traditions, translating them into contemporary fine fragrance. Woodoo feels like a particularly atmospheric example of that approach: a scent that uses familiar perfume materials, but lets them tell a more transportive story. Cent.PM – eau de penséeEau de pensée, the debut fragrance from Chinese-French house Cent.PM, begins with an intensely personal memory: founder Haoyuan recalling the childhood ritual of sun-drying osmanthus blossoms in a field. Rather than trying to make a literal flower portrait, Cent.PM treats the memory as something unstable and shifting. The perfume is intended to capture that instant when an old recollection suddenly brightens into focus, only to blur again as past and present overlap. The opening is vibrant and light-filled, with notes including neroli, pink pepper and mandarin lending a sparkling, green-citrus lift. From there, the fragrance becomes more veiled and contemplative, eventually settling into a warm, close-to-the-skin afterglow. Osmanthus can be a fascinating material in perfume: floral, but also capable of suggesting apricot, tea, suede and a certain honeyed, almost leathery softness. Here, its role appears to be as much emotional as olfactory, carrying the atmosphere of childhood, sunshine, landscape and passing time. Cent.PM approaches fragrance as a meeting point between cultures, materials and memory. Its name and first release suggest an interest in the fleeting, in-between time of late afternoon: a moment for reflection, imagination and sensory recollection. Sisology – Être toiKorean house Sisology’s Être toi is a tender, uplifting fragrance built around the idea that being fully oneself is its own kind of beauty. The scent opens with freesia and peach, combining clean floral freshness with soft, gently juicy fruit. Rose sits at the heart, bringing a familiar, romantic bloom, but the fragrance’s real appeal lies in the ease of its overall structure. Patchouli, woods and amber provide a warm, lightly earthy base that gives the composition depth without overwhelming its airiness. Sisology describes Être toi as a perfume for the easy laugh, the hopeful heart and the comfort of sincerity. It is imagined as sunlight through lace curtains: bright but soft, clean but intimate. That makes it sound less like a dramatic statement fragrance and more like a gentle confidence-builder, the kind of scent that feels naturally part of the wearer rather than something imposed upon them. The brand is based in Seoul and works across fragrance and sensorial beauty. Its style is rooted in the expressive, emotional side of scent, but presented in a modern, approachable way. Être toi is a quietly optimistic introduction to that world. Insenf – Charred WoodFounded in Seoul in 2025, Insenf is a niche perfume house that combines traditional Korean craftsmanship with modern scent science. Its work takes everyday cultural references such as fashion, food and lifestyle, then interprets them through fragrance in unusual and highly textural ways. Charred Wood is part of the Table Collection, inspired by ingredients transformed through fire, smoke and time. In perfume terms, that means the scent has the drama of a meal cooked over open heat: black pepper freshly crushed on the table; chestnuts slowly roasting; smoke rising from salted seaweed; the mineral warmth of charcoal lingering after the flames are gone. The opening combines black pepper, roasted chestnut and smoked sea salt. It is dry, spicy and savoury, with the chestnut adding a nutty, almost comforting contrast to the salt and smoke. The heart moves in an even more unexpected direction: fermented tea, Korean seaweed crisp, incense resin, myrrh and clove leaf. These notes suggest a rich umami character, but the resins and clove also ensure it remains recognisably perfumery rather than becoming simply gastronomic. Charcoal, hinoki, amberwood, patchouli and vetiver provide the base. Hinoki is especially evocative here, its dry, aromatic woodiness echoing Japanese and Korean bathing and temple woods, while vetiver and patchouli add rootiness and shadow. Charred Wood sounds like a fragrance for anyone who enjoys scent at its most savoury, smoky and unconventional. Kuoca – Wild PeachKuoca approaches fragrance through the lens of fine dining, treating its compositions as carefully balanced experiences in which freshness, sweetness, texture and contrast all matter. The Korean beauty brand is best known for making sensorial products that feel deliciously tactile, and Wild Peach takes that same appetite for pleasure into fragrance. Wild Peach centres on the sunny, juicy character of ripe fruit, but it is not designed as a dense peach syrup. Verbena and mint bring a sparkling, aromatic greenness that makes the peach feel freshly picked and still cool from the morning air. Peach blossom adds a lighter floral aspect, while ho wood lends a smooth, softly woody finish. The brand describes Wild Peach through the image of freshly squeezed peaches from Provence, with aromatic herbs giving a more sophisticated edge to the fruit. This sounds like a peach scent for those who usually find fruit fragrances too candied or obvious: bright, translucent and almost thirst-quenching rather than sticky. It is also a useful example of one of the wider trends Suzy noticed at Pitti: perfume houses taking familiar notes and shifting expectations around them. Peach here becomes less about confectionery and more about the contrast between ripe flesh, green leaves, fresh herbs and pale wood. Salon de Nevaeh – ChoseoKorean house Salon de Nevaeh was impossible to overlook at Pitti, not least because of its exquisite bottle design. The flacons are ceramic and inset with mother-of-pearl, giving them the presence of miniature objects of craft rather than simply containers for perfume. Inside, the fragrances draw upon Korean aesthetic and cultural references. Choseo is inspired by “Grass Script”, a flowing form of cursive calligraphy in which brushstrokes can appear dynamic, spontaneous and unruly, while still carrying great poise and control. That movement is reflected in the perfume’s green composition. Dried herbs, green leaves, lime and mandarin give the opening an angular, bright and almost brush-like energy. Spearmint, geranium and muguet create a cooler, softer heart, while pine needle, galbanum, rosewood and musk provide a base that is leafy, resinous and quietly woody. The brand describes the fragrance as sharp and unruly green up close, but gentler and pale green from a distance. That is a beautiful way of describing the evolution of a green scent: the vivid snap of crushed stems and herbs gradually becoming more hazy, calm and atmospheric on skin. Salon de Nevaeh is described as Korea’s first niche perfume house and translates traditional Korean culture into contemporary fragrance. Sasva – Forbidden Words Bombay...

If you’ve ever wondered what goes on in a fragrance trade fair, get ready for all the news as Suzy reviews this year’s Pitti Fragranze in Florence. There are some some thrilling new launches and brands to get excited by, and she reveals some of the trends we can expect to see filtering their way through to the wider fragrance world over the coming months. In fact, firstly a storm stopped play as we arrived in Florence, with Suzy’s plane stranded on the runway for three hours as lightning struck. Luckily the rest of the trip was exciting for all the right reasons! Suzy has been attending the Pitti Fragranze trade fair for thirteen years, and genuinely felt this was one of the best ever years. The overall vibe seemed to be a return to beauty - classical perfumery elements woven in new and intriguing ways, and with greater cultural diversity from brands showcasing their heritage and aromas they grew up with. We’ll be focussing more in this aspect - as well as talking about the trends Suzy saw emerging this year - in next week’s episode. But until then, enjoy this whistle-stop rundown of some of Suzy’s highlights of the show this year… Suzy’s top picks of the show (well SOME of them - there were a lot! We’ll have to cover some more in future episodes and on our Patreon page). Beaufort London Sunken Tobacco Imagine an ancient, lead-lined wooden box of tobacco—lost in a shipwreck and submerged beneath the sea. Centuries later, the wreck re-emerges and its precious cargo is rediscovered. Barnacled and salt-encrusted, the lid is levered off - within, tobacco lies preserved in shadow and silt. Exposed at last to the sun, the furled leaves begin to bloom: warm, dark, faintly honeyed. Salt crystals glitter on wave-lapped rocks as the tobacco is laid out upon sun-bleached driftwood, its leathery richness threaded with mineral air, smoke, tar and sea-spray. A buried treasure, reclaimed from the deep - not pristine, but made stranger and more compelling by its long immersion. Sunken Tobacco is the scent of faded maps and flooded holds - of a sailor’s hoard brought blinking into daylight, still carrying the ocean in its grain. Four new Olfiction Lab Editions (coming soon! Expected launch on their website by end of November) BALSAM Neo-vintage amber Aldehydes, Apple, Bergamot Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Muguet Peru Balsam, Labdanum, Vanilla absolute, Fir Balsam, Benzoin, White Musks, Oakmoss SUAVE Neo-vintage fougere Nutmeg, Shaving soap, Cedar Leaf, Coffee CO2 Lavender absolute, Lavender oil, Coffee absolute, Geranium, Sage Musk Accord, Suede, Animal notes, Incense resin, Rectified Cedarwood, Oakmoss CASSISSIMO Fruity floral Blackcurrant Bud CO2, Blackcurrant Bud absolute, Blackberry, Red Mandarin Champagne accord, Tuberose absolute, Rose absolute Bulgaria, Geranium Rosat Musk, Cognac oil, Vanilla syrup, Benzoin, Patchouli, Sandalwood Australia LASKIAISPULLA Gourmand Nordic Shrove Buns Whipped Cream, Marzipan, Raspberry Jam, Raspberry Leaf, Orris Vanilla sugar, Vanilla absolute, Tonka absolute, Tonka infusion, Benzoin, Opoponax OLYMRA Founder: Born and raised in Greece, Dr. Frida Michailidou is an award-winning scientist whose work is deeply rooted in Greek botanical heritage, nature, and innovation. Previously a Lecturer and Collegium Fellow at ETH Zurich, she led the first scientific expedition to decode the rare scents of Mount Olympus using pioneering non-destructive technology. Recognised as an MIT Innovator Under 35 Europe and TEDx speaker, she is redefining perfumery through the convergence of science, sustainability, and the timeless spirit of Greece. ‘Born from the rare botanicals of Mount Olympus, OLYMRA transforms myth, memory, and wild nature into modern extrait de parfum. Grounded in earth, inspired by the divine.’ Persephone ‘Deep. Intimate. Transformative. OLYMRA PERSEPHONE is a fragrance of dual worlds: one of light, one of shadow. Inspired by the mythic queen who walks between both, it captures a moment of transformation: the instant spring yields to desire, and dusk begins to bloom. The fragrance opens with bergamot, pink pepper, and cardamom; bright, spiced notes that shimmer like sunlight across stone. At its heart, a lush pairing of Damask rose, Centifolia rose, and the OLYMRA plant accord, a precise reconstruction of rare mountain flora, unfurls with velvet intensity. Beneath, a deep base of cacao, tonka bean, beeswax, grey amber, and hyrax evokes warmth, earth, and skin; the lingering traces of a myth reborn. OLYMRA PERSEPHONE is not a fragrance of opposition, but of passage and evolution; from innocence to knowing, from surface to depth, from petal to flame. Crafted for those who carry both sunlight and shadow. She walks between worlds. Will you follow her into the dusk?’ Kharon ‘Dark. Sensual. Elemental. OLYMRA KHARON is a fragrance shaped by myth and memory. Inspired by Kharon, the ferryman of Hades, silent, unwavering, eternal, it is an olfactory passage through the darker recesses of the soul. The scent opens with sharp lemon, luminous neroli, and the spark of black pepper, evoking the moment just before surrender. At its heart, the complexity deepens: Damask rose and tobacco entwine with the OLYMRA Accord, a precise reconstruction of wild flora from Mount Olympus. In the base, smoked wood, beeswax, vetiver, sandalwood, and a bold note of hyrax create a dry, tactile finish; intimate yet vast, like breath inside stone. OLYMRA KHARON is not designed to please. It is designed to confront. To carry. To remain. A fragrance for those drawn not to light, but to truth; wherever it may lead. The river lays ahead... Are you ready to cross?’ Laboratorio Olfattivo Bagage à main (translates as hand luggage in British English) ‘Leather and Nutmeg; middle notes are Vetiver and Peru Balsam; base notes are Patchouli, Amber, Tonka Bean and Ambronova ™’ Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose Me Twice (By Jean-Claude Ellena) ‘With over 40,000 varieties, the rose is the flower whose fragrance has been most extensively explored by perfumers — an entire universe in which one can easily lose oneself among its infinite nuances. This exploration took a decisive turn in 1867, when the breeder Jean-Baptiste Guillot created ‘La France’, the first hybrid tea rose. With this innovation, Guillot introduced not merely a new flower, but an olfactory signature that would shape perfumery forever. Today, whenever I perceive a tea note within a rose, I immediately recognize its lineage from that historic hybridization. The secret of this aroma lies in a specific molecule: ionone — used to recreate the scent of violet, but also a key component in the olfactory impression of tea.’ Heeley Chiris Historic French house revered and revived by James Heeley in this INCREDIBLE leather / iris / Chypre fragrance. ‘The fragrance house of Antoine Chiris dates back to 1768 and is considered to be the first and perhaps the greatest of the enterprises that made a business of harvesting natural materials and turning them into the raw materials of perfumery and, at times, creating the perfumes themselves. Antoine de Chiris was born into a wealthy family of Italian origin. In Grasse he began buying up fields which produced flowers which were converted into perfumery materials. Chiris held early patents on a steam distillation process capable of producing significant amounts of high quality oil at an economic cost. This technology helped made Grasse the international focus of perfumery for over a century and a half.’ History from https://www.perfumeprojects.com/museum/marketers/Chiris.shtml The fragrance: ‘Chiris by James Heeley is an iris and leather fragrance created by James Heeley and launched in 2026. It pays tribute to Chiris, the historic perfume-materials producer founded in Grasse in 1768, and to the Iris Pallida it cultivated in Tuscany. Osmanthus, citrus and peach open the composition, followed by Iris Pallida and olibanum over a base of leather, cedar, sandalwood and amber.’ Lorenzo Villoresi Vol D’Abaris The nose behind this fragrance is Alessandro Villoresi. The fragrance features Tobacco, Amber, Vanilla, Musk and Woody Notes.

Are you feeling the need for snuggly scents yet? Suzy and Nicola are leaning into the cosiness in this week’s episode and have been gathering together some of new launches and favourite fragrances they’ve been wearing as autumn approaches. The discussion ranges from ultra-sophisticated gourmands encompassing chocolate and lattes, to a bohemian rose, a truly fantastic new woody scent, and an American niche tobacco fragrance Suzy fell for years ago and a listener kindly sourced a sample of for her. Plus, the #listenerprescription this week is for a ‘friendship fragrance’ to link and be shared by a listener and her best friend who is moving far away... Tom Ford Tobacco Chocolat By Daniela Andrier ‘TOM FORD has long been drawn to the sensual, masculine heat of tobacco – and now, the perfumer adds another iteration to its repertoire. Tobacco Chocolat is an eau de parfum founded upon the brand’s exclusive cocoa smoke accord, a note that fuses the rich, intoxicating quality of cocoa with the grounding earthiness of tobacco. Alongside this powerful core are a host of complimentary notes, from bright orange essence to balsam and patchouli, coming together to make a fragrance set to capture attention. Top Notes: cocoa smoke co-distillation, Orange Essence Middle Notes: peru balsam, chocolat noir grand cru delight Base Notes: patchouli cœur Indonesia, Ambrofix.’ NEST New York Cardamom Latte ‘Like cashmere on bare skin, this spicy gourmand eau de parfum is endlessly wearable. The gentle heat of cardamom drifts through jasmine-laced air steeped in the creamy comfort of coconut milk. Cardamom Latte unfolds like the perfect pour—layered and immersive. Heat blooms into softness. Spice melts into cream. Steam diffuses into air. Transforming your atmosphere with warmth you can feel. An enveloping fragrance that surrounds before it settles. Because comfort isn’t static. It’s fluid.’ Acqua di Parma Signatures of the Sun Cedar Virtuoso (& body cream) ‘Cedro Virtuoso celebrates the sensorial warmth of creation—the moment when an idea begins to take shape and inner confidence turns sensibility into emotion. Like the different stages of a creative process, the fragrance unfolds like a warm embrace, encouraging creativity to rise from within. Between vivid, vibrant notes and deeper, cocooning tones that accompany the journey from intuition to realization is the fragrance’s distinctive singularity: a co-infusion of Virginia cedarwood and hazelnut, whose encounter shapes a creamy woody signature.’ Miller Harris Scherzo Extrait ‘Developed at 30% concentration, Scherzo Extrait captures the vibrant spirit of the original Eau de Parfum while unveiling a deeper, more intoxicating signature. Bright, luminous sweetness meets newfound richness and warmth, allowing the fragrance to bloom with a more immersive intensity for lasting presence. The fragrance opens with the familiar rush of tangerine and davana, radiating vibrant fruity luminosity. At its heart, delicate peony blooms abundantly alongside crisp pittosporum, while a new dimension begins to emerge: a more sumptuous and velvety rose, enrobed in golden honey and entwined with creamy vanilla for a richer sensuality, its floral radiance enhanced by threads of incense to bring light and vibration. Together, they introduce a magnetic tension, guiding the fragrance towards more mysterious territory. At the base, shimmering oudh unfolds with greater texture, amplified by intensified patchouli and moss. The introduction of smooth amber woods brings warmth and refinement, creating a striking counterpoint to the fragrance's signature sweetness. As these richer notes emerge, they reveal new facets of its character. The result is a fragrance which is radiant yet mysterious, vibrant yet profound, with a more enduring and enveloping trail.’ HEAD NOTES: Tangerine*, Davana* (herb with a fruity, sweet, tea like smell, member of the Artemisia family.) HEART NOTES: Rose Nectar Accord, Peony, Olibanum* (Frankincense), Pittosporum. LASTING IMPRESSIONS: Patchouli*, Vanilla, Oudh, Moss, Amber Woods, Sweet Note. Sonoma Scents Tabac Aurea ‘Tabac Aurea has an enticing golden amber drydown and a pipe tobacco note that is enjoyed by women as well as men. It’s smooth and softly gourmand, with notes of amber, woods, spices, tobacco, leather, tonka, labdanum, patchouli, and vanilla. The amber accord combines dry earthy notes with sweet elements and subtle fruity touches to create an addictive, beautiful, golden aura. One of our top three best-selling scents.’ Ormonde Jayne Sybarite Nicola has been finding great comfort and energy in this, lately. It’s the only store-exclusive founder and creative director Linda Pilkington has allowed for her own Royal Arcade boutique, this was so worth the wait. A perfect melange of creamy hazelnut and orris butter, it’s the Timur pepper and the effervescently spiced sparkle it adds to the composition that ties it all together. Utterly unique, and beautifully balanced, it’s the finer things in life lovingly bottled. Those craving outside London: call or email them for information. Perfume Prescription: Luci Tither: ‘Hi lovely ladies, you very kindly gave me a perfume prescription for a magical trip to Porto last year (excellent recommendation of Claus Porto). And I wondered if you'd indulge a second prescription if I may. I loved the notion of a friendship fragrance mentioned in a recent episode. It really struck a chord with me as my best friend is very sadly moving to Canada from the UK early next year and although I'm very happy for her, I'm going to miss her immensely. I wondered if it would be at all possible to help us find a fragrance that we could both wear whenever we meet, and will remind us of each other when we're apart. She loves a gourmand like Bianco Latte, Seven Virtues Vanilla Amber or skin scents like Not A Perfume and Phlur Not Your Baby. For me, I love clean, powdery skin scents (like Molecule Iris, Prada Infusion), and warm sandalwood/ambery scents (think Sana Jardin Sandalwood Temple, BDK Vanilla Leather). We also both love a rogue option like Dries Van Noten Fleur de Mal, BDK Rouge Smoking Jacket and Amouage Guidance. Apologies for the long message - I hope you can suggest something that we'd both love and can make being thousands of miles apart that bit easier. Thank you in advance - your podcast is very much my happy place on my commute to work. Xx’ Suzy thinks it’s definitely worth trying a sample of Estée Lauder Glimmer (and the Acqua di Parma Cedro Virtuoso), and also suggests: Molton Brown Milk Musk Eau de Toilette Milk gently laps at luscious notes of pear, delicate florals and sheer white musk, while Ambroxan and cashmere add that skin-on-skin warmth. Scented contentment awaits, tender as a fluttery kiss, softly embracing rather than swaddling. Fischersund Faux Flora No. 1 Encompassing the life cycles of plants and humans alike, this scent ‘springs from universal experiences.’ A sparkle of bergamot’s brightness is swathed by ‘mountain milk’, cool, pristine and porcelain-like, warming to salty iris’s mortal muskiness. Eris Parfums Mothers Milk Antoine Lee’s ‘primordial gourmand’ blends buttery orris and vanilla with hyper-realistic warm milk, subverting the soft-focus skin-swaddled kiss of comfort, as ‘good’ mother (rosily nurturing) becomes ‘bad’ (suede-like, sultry). Think fairytale mother turned Joan Crawford. Maison Louis Marie Bois de Balincourt (You can get a mini travel set with the oil and EDP, so could purchase one to share, perhaps?) ‘Bois de Balincourt is inspired by our family home, nestled deep within an ancient forest. Along a trail we fondly called Lover’s Lane, generations wandered under towering trees, surrounded by stillness and memory. This signature scent layers creamy sandalwood and cedar with warming cinnamon and nutmeg, anchored by earthy vetiver — a romantic, comforting fragrance with effortless depth.’ Olfactive O Skin Nicola had the brilliant idea of using this scent as your shared ‘base’ layer, which you can wear alone or layer with any other perfume you have. That way, she thought you’d always be grounded in the same scent. Suzy then had the idea if you both ordered bottles, you could use then personalise them – each full-size bottle of Skin extrait comes with a fingerprint ink pad and blank label for this purpose! Olivia, the founder, describes Skin as: ‘...for everyone, universal yet deeply personal. The delicate balance of notes blends with your skin chemistry to create the absolute essence of you – unmistakable and compelling. It can be applied on its own or worn in combination with any of the other personality scents to magnify and enhance your unique scent. I am the alchemist, the musician, the storyteller. I am confident in my own skin and never need to pretend. I confound expectations and you’ll keep coming back to me, intrigued and charmed. I am sun-warmed skin on the beach, tousled hair, the cool of cotton sheets at the end of the day.’

This week Suzy & Nicola are pondering the resurgence of iris - one of the most traditional (and costly) notes in perfumery made modern by exploring it in surprising ways. From one of the all-time classic iris perfumes launching a new version after 114 years, to another historic house who’s just launched a dashingly debonair iris scent; and a brilliantly affordable iris from a high street shop that’s one of our star buys year… There’s a lot to love! After discussing what else we’ve fallen for lately, and Suzy’s perfume picks from an Australian brand’s stunning new East End boutique; we asked Scott (@blublazer guy) to answer a listener’s question about fragrances to wear while visiting Edinburgh. On the show: Guerlain L’Heure Bleu (new) Perfumer Delphine Jelk says she didn’t try ‘to modernise the original L’Heure Bleue from 1912, nor to revisit it, but to pay tribute to a masterpiece and to translate that emotion into the present through a new palette of ingredients.’ A ‘homemade iris tincture created exclusively for this perfume’ is woven into a fresher-feeling ‘ozonic blue sky accord to shiver’, together with ‘the softness of orange blossom’, on a base of vanilla, woods and musk, creating what Jelk calls ‘airy, powdery sensuality’. Creed Iris Debonair ‘Unlock Iris Debonair, an addictive fougère floral capturing the allure of an aesthete's domain, where every room reveals an intentional art of living. Opening with a luminous stroke of bergamot co-infused with absinthe leaves, at the heart, crisp English lavender unfolds with cool, aromatic clarity. French iris pallida, suffused in pale blue, is magnetic and among perfumery's most precious materials. Head Notes Bergamot & Absinthe, Pink Pepper, Cardamom Heart Notes English Lavender, Violet Leaf, Fig Pulp Accord Base Notes French Iris Pallida, Ambrette, Amberwood’ Boots Last Note Echoes of You 50ml fragrance priced at £12.99 from the debut "Last Note" collection. It features a sparkling pink pepper top note, a middle core of velvety iris and cashmere musk, and a warm amber base. Top: Pink pepper Heart: Iris, cashmere musk Base: Warm amber Merchant of Venice Renaissance ‘By Calice Becker, this floral-leathery fragrance is inspired by Renaissance ideals of balance and harmony, housed in a golden-accented Murano glass bottle. Top Notes: Galbanum, Orange Blossom Absolute, Saffron Heart Notes: Iris, Indonesian Patchouli, Leather, Akigalawood Base Notes: Ambrofix™, Vanilla, Frankincense (Incense), Musk.’ Jo Malone London Rose & Oud Leather Cologne Intense (Harrods) ‘The captivating fragrance is a tribute to the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of patchouli and amber. Top Notes: oud, leather Middle Notes: damask rose Base Notes: patchouli, amber.’ Thomas de Monaco Luisant Haze (Wild Iris) ‘Luisant Haze expands the Gold Collection of Thomas De Monaco Parfums with a fragrance that approaches sweetness in a different way. At the heart of the composition is a reimagined tuberose. Not opulent or dense, but softened, diffused, and luminous. Sweetness appears here in a new form: airy rather than heavy, radiant rather than indulgent. Notes of fraise des bois, cotton candy, and tonka are lifted by white musks and amber facets, creating a transparent structure that stays close to the skin.’ Givenchy L’Interdit Elixir ‘L'Interdit Elixir evokes a precious talisman infused with power, created to unveil the magnetic strength within every woman. The scent opens with the voluptuous intensity of Black Cherry, illuminated by the delicate bitterness of almond essence. It melts into L'Interdit's iconic bouquet of white flowers, where Orange Blossom, Tuberose, and Jasmine reveal an opulent, almost carnal femininity, enriched by the profound woody nuances of pure oakwood extract. Faithful to Givenchy's art of contrast, L'Interdit Elixir balances shadow and light, sensuality and strength. At its most addictive, a warm, liqueur-like accord unfolds through the richness of Rum Absolute, Davana Essence, and Vanilla Extract, leaving behind a deeply enveloping trail. Fused with the skin, the fragrance becomes a captivating aura of confidence — a pure expression of empowered femininity.’ Giorgio Armani I WILL ‘A sensual strength forged through time, I WILL awakens tenacity with confidence and leaves an intense, unmistakable trail. Created by Nathalie Lorson and Alberto Morillas, it opens with bergamot and cardamom, develops through lavender and violet leaf, and settles into Madagascan vanilla with a woody leather accord.’ Flaner fragrances: new Australian niche fragrance boutique in East London. You can listen to a live recording of Suzy and Amanda Carr visiting their stunning shop and hearing all about the collection on an exclusive extra episode. Head to patreon.com here to sign up for an extra episode every week: https://www.patreon.com/u84518038 Suzy’s favourites from Flaner were: Sonic Silver ‘Inspiration: Tram tracks connecting city streets The sun peaks through the clouds after rain, glistening off the sleek silver tracks. Urban landscapes echo past, providing a window into the irreverent spirit of an eclectic city with backdrop of thunderous rhythm of metal. Imbuing the artistic spirit found in the canvas of urban laneways, this fragrance captures the raw, urban edge of a city's atmosphere to create something truly unique. Notes: Top: Basil, Lavender, Bergamot Middle: Metallic, Petrichor, Cardamom Base: Asphalt & Tar, Green Patchouli, Musk & Tonka.’ Manhattan Cherry ‘Inspiration: Speakeasies of Manhattan A laneway door opens and down a flight of stairs a small room with leather chairs, dark woods and the faint smell of tobacco signals a forbidden and mysterious world. Dimly lit and intimate, the night invites indulgence and seduction. A sensual tryst of cherry and dark bourbon, this fragrance evokes the boldness and intoxicating allure that comes from the Manhattan cocktail, in Manhattan of course.’ Enjoy responsibly. Notes: Top: Maraschino cherry, Red vermouth, Orange peel Middle: Bourbon, Ginger, Cinnamon Base: Amber wood, Tobacco, Leather, Vanilla Listener prescription: Ashley Burk ‘Hello! :) I have been listening to your podcast for years and years! I feel like you both have been traveling with me around the world because you have now helped me find fragrances to wear in Greece, Ireland, and Japan! This October I got myself a ticket to go to Edinburgh, Scotland and was wondering if you could recommend me some perfume to wear while I go for a week. I will be doing the Harry Potter steam train day trip one of the days! If you know of any perfume stores I should see in Edinburgh please let me know as well. I am so excited to be there during October. Thank you both! :)’ Who better to turn to than our friend Scott @blublazerguy (who happens to live in Edinburgh) and suggested: Kingdom Scotland Portal ‘Ancient forest. Still air. The scent of Scotland before the world arrived. A green woody chypre eau de parfum that opens on crushed heather and wild herbs, deepens into cool fern and forest moss, and settles into a long, intimate base of oakmoss, vetiver, and peat-warmed cedar.’ Jorum Studio Boswelia Scotia ‘Royal Green Hojari Frankincense, Pink Pepper, Saffron, Cistus, Sandalwood Mysore, Cypriol, Patchouli, Black Hemlock, Fir Balsam, Olibanum Absolute. A golden veil of gossamer-light. Royal Green Hojari Frankincense soothed by fir balsam and black hemlock. Boswellia Scotia is incense reimagined; translucent, atmospheric and quietly magnetic.’ ANFORH Aire ‘Crisp citrus, cool ozonic air, and dry vetiver - Aire is clarity bottled. Fresh, textured, and quietly confident. Fresh, zesty, and mineral. Green mandarin and Calabrian bergamot open with a burst of citrus brightness before giving way to the cool lift of ozonic air and the dry, earthy depth of vetiver. A fragrance that moves with energy and purpose, settling into a steady, confident calm. From the Scots word "aire" (a gravel-shored coastal edge where land meets sea), Aire captures the sensation of standing on a coastal edge, breathing in invigorating, mineral air as light breaks across the water. It’s bright, citrus-driven, and full of energy - the feeling of movement and clarity. Inspired by the Scottish coastline, it balances natural vibrancy with grounded calm.’ Suzy suggests visiting Jorum Studio’s shop (incredible Scottish fragrance brand) Jorum a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/Edinburgh+%0D%0A+12+St.+Stephen+Street,+EH3+5AL?entry=gmail&source=g"...

In this episode we’re partnering with Estée Lauder for the first in a new series: Fragrant Focus. This is where we take our time exploring a single scent - smelling it together and sharing our thoughts. And we have an exciting GIVEAWAY for you to enter! Listen and read on to find out how to enter, hear our reviews of Glimmer, and the beautiful inspiration behind its launch. We have a plethora of exciting new launches to tell you about, from niche names, designer and heritage houses alike. But we begin with an emotional journey to capture the scent of something very special to Suzy… MANE Dad’s Rose Suzy got very emotional about this olfactory delivery, as MANE - a fragrance creation house in the U.K. who’ve made scents for some of the biggest brands out there - managed to capture the scent of a rise her father planted for her when she was a little girl. One of MANE’s standout innovations is their ‘Jungle Essence™’ technology. In some ways similar to ‘headspace’ captures of previously unusable materials in perfumery, these essences are utterly unique and exclusive to MANE. And to see it in action is just MIND BLOWING! Jungle Essence™ is a patented, eco-friendly scent and flavor extraction technology created by the fragrance house MANE. It uses supercritical carbon dioxide (CO₂) to capture the exact, true-to-life aroma of a raw material—whether it is a spice used in men's cologne, a flower, or wood—without using harsh chemical solvents or high heat. You can hear all about the process in a special Patron only extra episode on patreon.com (search for ‘On the Scent podcast’ to find us) Penhaligon’s The Manoeuvres of The Baroness Suzy and Nicola got very excited about this latest character in the Portraits collection (and it’s an orange blossom - one of the notes they regularly swoon over!) Key notes Orange Blossom, Chantilly, Sandalwood ‘Collector of secrets and quiet conspiracies, the Baroness has always ruled from the shadows. Orange blossom sparkles with influence next to Chantilly. A whispered order of sandalwood. She doesn’t outrun danger; she outsmarts it.’ Jil Sander collection Both Suzy & Nicola were hugely impressed by the latest Jil Sander fragrances, and these were Suzy’s two favourites: Lily ‘Caught by surprise by an enchanting perfume on a warm Florentine night. Lilies are white, sensual flowers that primarily release their fragrance after sunset. In Jil Sander Lily the aldehydes bring the flower's metallic, blooming facets to life, while the floral power of the CO₂ extracted Jasmine Sambac, the warmth of Benzoin from Vietnam, and the verticality of the upcycled Cypress structure and balance this luscious, radiant fragrance. This new majestic Floral White Flower fragrance magnifies the ephemeral into a lasting form.’ Mahogony: ‘The supreme energy of a tropical forest captured into a scent. For the depths of its hues where red turns to black, mahogany is one of the most fascinating trees. Jil Sander Mahogany pays homage to this exceptional expression of nature in a fragrance that fuses upcycled Cedarwood with the profound leathery facets of Cypriol from India, the fizzy, spicy notes of CO₂ extracted Ginger, and the aldehydes. A rich and sophisticated Woody Leathery fragrance that raises mahogany to new heights.’ Nicola was so impressed by how realistic the Jil Sander Sesame was (though admits she may not be brave enough to wear it yet), while Suzy thought it was cosy and comforting. French Cowboy Mezcal Chocolate (available at Wild Iris) Suzy continues to be wowed by this exciting new niche house, and cannot wait for cooler weather in which to indulge in this one. ‘Mezcal Chocolat is fueled by extraordinary raw materials. It hits like a shot of mezcal: it opens with a sparkling Lime Oil, sharpened by Olibanum from Somalia for smoky depth. To push it further, our perfumer added an ultra-rare Rhum extract (as costly as some of perfumery’s finest Iris!). Instead of just a synthetic cacao accord, Mezcal Chocolat goes all in on Cacao Absolute: the most precious form of cocoa, used here in unprecedented amounts. Its creaminess melts into a bed of woods: Virginia Cedarwood, prized for its soft smoky creaminess, and Cypriol Oil from India, adding shadow, depth, and a dark, earthy glow.’ Byredo Future Memories Another fascinating take on vanilla, and our hosts both adored the juicy blackcurrant note balance g the sweetness here. ‘Byredo captures the tension between now and next: an invitation to live fully, to choose deliberately, to imprint the present with intention. Held like a quiet mantra at the back of the mind, one question remains: What do you choose today, to remember tomorrow? A scent crafted like a memory in motion. The fragrance opens with the vivid green freshness of galbanum, illuminated by the juicy brightness of blackcurrant and a veil of aldehydes that diffuse light through the composition. At its heart, powdery iris unfolds alongside warm, resinous labdanum, creating a textured impression that settles gently onto the skin. In the base, vanilla emerges in full, enriched by Ambrofix and an intimate veil of musks lingering on the skin as a subtle trace of what remains. Top Notes: Galbanum essence, blackcurrant accord, and fresh aldehydes for a bright, sparkling, and green start. Heart Notes: Iris butter, labdanum resinoid, orange blossom, and white vanilla accord providing powdery floral warmth. Base Notes: Madagascar vanilla CO2, vanilla liqueur accord, Ambrofix, and sensual musks.’ Nishane Thorns Become Roses When a rose is velvety and gorgeous but still displays its sharpness… This is by Julien Rasquinet, and inspired by the Rumi quote "With love, thorns become roses" ‘Thorns Become Roses is a contemporary, contrast-driven rose that embodies transformation, evolving from a vivid, luminous opening into an intense floral heart, and settling into a deep, enveloping woody amber trail. Crafted as an extrait de parfum, it redefines the rose through a balance of tension and softness, offering a structured yet sensual and evolving olfactive experience. Lychee and raspberry, luminous and vibrant, meet the metallic sharpness of saffron and cardamom, evoking the harsh brilliance of noon light on Petra’s cliffs. At its heart, Turkish rose unfolds with dense, velvety depth, held in contrast by the green-leathery facets of violet leaf and the powdery softness of mimosa. A rose both thorned and tender, asserting its beauty through contrast. The base settles into a mineral, enduring trail of amberwood and patchouli, softened by creamy sandalwood. Here, tension gives way to a quiet radiance, neither sweet nor austere, but balanced, tactile, and lasting. Top Notes: lychee, raspberry, saffron Heart Notes: rose, mimosa, blackcurrant Base Notes: patchouli, amberwood, aetoxylon’ FRAGRANT FOCUS: AD: Estée Lauder Glimmer Extraordinarily, this is the first new main line fragrance for 12 years, and the first ever gourmand style fragrance for the house! But Suzy and Nicola think that unmistakable Lauder DNA shines through. Indeed, this a scent that celebrates shining - finding your own light and the things that lift you every single day. Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo and Jean-Marc Chaillan are the incredible perfumers. Top Notes: raspberry, orange blossom, milk mousse and mandarin Heart Notes: Cashmeran, macarons, vanilla and rose Base Notes: amber, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli and cedarwood. Bright, sparkling and mouthwatering. Fruity-rosy raspberry, a fresh lift of mandarin, and a soft orange flower glow. Warmer and more enveloping. Macaron Rose Accord comes forward with its gourmand impression, wrapped in the radiant depth of Amber Embrace Accord and Shimmering Patchouli, with a smooth, skin-warmed softness. The fragrance settles into a lingering, addictive trail, a glowing blend of Amber, Patchouli, Woods and Tonka Bean notes. Still warmed by a whisper of sweetness that stays close and feels unforgettable. Estée Lauder says: This is the fragrance for life’s most extraordinary moments. It’s a scent not just to be worn, but to be felt, remembered, and shared. Because when you find what makes you glimmer, it lights up everyone around you. For the full sizes, a beautiful rectangular bottle embodies femininity and strength. Sculpted semi-circles catch and reflect each ray of light. A circular gold-tone cap adds a luminous finish. Travel Size: The Travel Size is a deluxe mini fragrance spray. Perfect for on the go, to gift to a friend, or to try for the first time. 10ml travel size £25 Also comes in 30ml, 50ml & 100ml GIVEAWAY: We have a full size bottle of Glimmer to giveaway - see the post on our Instagram to enter! How to enter: Follow both @onthescentpodcast and @esteelauderuk on Instagram, then like and comment on the giveaway post on our Instagram account. That’s it! Entries must be made before 8.00 pm BST on Thursday, 3 September 2026. Because of delivery restrictions we can only accept entries from U.K. residents. Terms...

We’re hanging on to summer with the fragrance launches discussed, and in what we’re wearing this week, but there is a noticeable change in the weather here in the U.K. There have even been sightings of socks, jackets, cardigans and knee-high boots on the streets! A week ago, such items were unthinkable, but now we’re almost looking forward to the seasons changing again. ALMOST, but not quite yet. Not when there’s a plethora of new perfume discoveries to delve in to (many of which will prove incredibly versatile in cooler weather anyway, we feel). Quite apart from some exquisite new fragrant finds to welcome Nicola back from holiday with, we’ve two more of your utterly brilliant Listener Prescriptions to answer, and an exciting update from Madeline – the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter we helped find new fragrances for last week! In this week’s episode we discuss: Jo Malone London Sea Salt & Bergamot ‘Plunge into the exhilarating surf of the Celtic Sea. Immersed in the wild waters, every wave carries a fresh minerality. Joining a burst of bergamot, driftwood anchors this sea-salt fresh scent. Experience the untamed beauty of the British coast. Top Note: bergamot (Brightens with its sparkling, citrus freshness) Heart Note: sea salt (The crunchy nature of sea salt accord brings both texture and a sense of freshness and purity to the heart of the fragrance) Base Note: driftwood (Suffused with the saltiness of the sea, this accord brings a light woodiness to the fragrance)’ Jo Malone London Iris & White Musk Cologne Intense (recommend to listener in last week’s episode seeking clean / soapy iris fragrances!) Harrods ‘The Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense from Jo Malone London is a light and airy scent that’s perfect for everyday use. It marries powdery iris with creamy white musk, resulting in a distinctive aroma that’s ideal for layering with other fragrances but can also be worn alone.’ Ex Nihilo Demon Dancer (Harrods) ‘Ex Nihilo recreates the defiant freedom of dance in motion. Inviting you to move to your own rhythm, Ex Nihilo’s Demon Dancer is a call for ‘unapologetic self-expression’. Inspired by contemporary dance performance, the fragrance ignites an inner fire through energetic fruity notes that flow with freeing freshness and grounded intensity. Top Notes: rhubarb, bergamot, peppermint, blood orange Heart Notes: orange blossom, blackcurrant Base Notes: georgywood, akigalawood, ambrofix, musks, tonka bean.’ Une Nuit Nomade Sun Bleached ‘Clean Linen Accord • White Flowers • Bergamot •Ambrette Absolute Muscat, the capital of the Sultanate of Oman, also known as the White City. The sun drowns the immaculate walls with its rays. It is a bright light that makes eyes squint. Omanis wander the streets, elegantly wearing their dishdashas, a long white tunic decorated with a pom-pom that is delicately dipped in perfume. 'Sun Bleached' is adorned with freshness, in an accord of clean linen, white flowers and a zesty flight of citrus fruits as if biting into a piece of orange, with white musks and sandalwood rounding off its explosiveness.’ Connock London Pelago ‘A sun-drenched Mediterranean fragrance with bright citrus and aromatic herbs, evoking the warmth of golden afternoons along sunlit shores. Top Notes: orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit. Heart Notes: rosemary, neroli, petitgrain. Base Notes: amber, vetiver.’ Roger & Gallet Neroli Solid Perfume ‘Discover your Néroli Wellbeing Fragrant Water in a new solid format to put on the neck, the neckline and the wrists. An alcohol-free perfume merging soflty with the skin. A new way to boost and facet your trail all day long. Enriched with rose essential oil, known for its relaxing benefits, the solid fragrance is a real caress onto the skin. Its rich and unctuous texture with vegetal waxes encapsulates the olfactive notes and keep the trail longer. A small and nomad format with an addictive gesture, to bring everywhere, wherever you are.’ French Cowboy Pear Pavlova ‘Almond, Ambrette Seeds, Jasmine, Meringue, Pear, Pink Pepper, Powdery Musk, Vanilla. Ashley Santiago is the youngest perfumer at Givaudan and the co-founder of French Cowboy. California-born with Mexican-Caribbean roots, she honed her craft in Paris, New York & Singapore: blending global flavour with French savoir-faire.’ PERFUME PRESCRIPTIONS: Update from Madeline (the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter from last week’s Correspondence Special episode): ‘OH MY GOODNESS GRACIOUS!! Suzy and Nicola thankyou so so sooooo much for my prescription!! When I saw that you had dropped a new episode WITH MY NAME IN THE NOTES I screamed!!!! It's perfect perfect PERFECT beyond words. I have already ordered a bottle of the Map Of Hearts Valour and I am currently hunting for samples of the others you both suggested!! I CANNOT wait to let you know how I go, l am so so sooooo excited to try them all!!’ (If we don’t have time this week: NEXT WEEK’S EPISODE, another Perfume Prescription special?) Jessi - aka @grotesquex_o ‘hi suzy and nicola, the day that you answered my cave perfume prescription was one of the best days of my life. i was hiking around the forest on a break at the museum in san francisco where i work, squealing and reveling in our shared zeal! ill remember the feeling forever. although i havent gotten my nose on that perfect perfume you found just yet, my sister and boyfriend know exactly what to get me for Christmas… I’m writing to you humbly with the hope of another perfume prescription. i love cold incense perfumes, and found that my favorites (andrea maack craft and CDG avignon) have a chlorine note (to my nose at least, tho unlisted) that i crave. like the way your skin and hair smell after a swim in the pool, not the smell of sunscreen or tropical fruits that so often characterizes pool culture-inspired perfumes. are there any other cold, chlorinated, incense perfumes you love?’ Suzy’s Answer: Serge Lutens L’Eau Froide ‘By Christopher Sheldrake. The fragrance features Sea water, Pepper, Mint, Musk, Incense, Olibanum, Ginger and Vetiver.’ ‘"The situation was too hot for me to handle.” or “A chill ran down my spine.” I simply applied a similar concept to an Eau. The hero of this story is a tree during the dog days of summer. If an incision is made in its trunk, "tears of glass" come out. Without air conditioning, the heat would kill it. Frankincense helps this scent preserve an icy cool." - a note from the brand.’ Bibbi Swimming Pool ‘By Jérôme Epinette. Top notes are mint, basil and Ginger; middle notes are Eucalyptus and Geranium; base notes are Blonde Woods, Grass, White Wood, Ambroxan and Light Amber. You completely forget about time and space when you swim in the pool. The water forces you to go through all the darkest hours and brightest moments of your life. After swimming in the pool, you will be forever changed and have an intense basil-like scent stuck to your skin forever.’ Heretic Nosferatu ‘SMELLS LIKE: An encounter with an apparition in the cold, damp caves of Count Orlok's castle.’ ‘In partnership with Nosferatu and Focus Features, Heretic is proud to present Nosferatu Eau de Macabre, a fragrance inspired by the iconic vampire. A chilling scent of wilting lilacs, velvety vegan ambergris and strikes of lightning that fill the air with petrichor and electricity—It's both delicate and hedonistic. Samples available. Top Notes: lilac, ambrette Heart Notes: petrichor, violet absolute, orris concrete, cypriol BASE: vegan ambergris, oudh, labdanum.’ Pip: ‘Hi Suzie and Nicola. I’m looking for a perfume prescription. I’ve had a bit of a rollercoaster year, my partner and I were lucky enough to have a little boy together after IVF and it’s been a really incredible (though exhausting!) time. One of my oldest and dearest friends died a month before we had him and there’s not a day that goes by where I don’t think about her. I’m incredibly sad that we never got to share any of our boy mum moments together. She was always so positive though and down to earth, and I want to remember her with happiness, as well as have a comforting fragrance that will make me think of my little boy when he’s older and him of me. My memories of my friend when we were growing up together are scented with incense, books and the sticky floors of rock bars! I like vanilla, sandalwood and scents that have a bit of smoke. Thanks so much and thank you for keeping me company on my particularly sleep deprived days, I love listening to you both! Pip x’ Suzy’s answer: The Perfumer’s Story Old Books by Azzi ‘Character: intelligent, eccentric, rock &...

We cannot tell you how much we LOVE receiving your questions and requests for ‘perfume prescriptions’ (something we’ve always specialised in at On the Scent Podcast – it brings us such joy being able to match people to perfumes they’d perhaps never tried or even heard of). And we get a LOT of DMs @onthescentpodcast on Instagram, and messages on our On the Scent private Facebook group, so here we are dedicating an episode to do a deep dive on two fascinating fragrant conundrums... Sometimes the prescription requests we get are to help find a ‘replacement’ for a beloved signature scent that’s since been discontinued – to which we say, there’s probably never going to be an exact match, but we can definitely guide you toward trying some scents that match the vibe, the feeling that fragrance gave you when you wore it, and the way it slotted into your life like a puzzle piece. We also get a lot of requests for very specific scenarios, sometimes quite abstract themes or intimate moments our listeners are seeking to scent! But when we think about them more broadly, there’s ways of applying these scenarios (and the things the listener needs to take from them: strength, motivation, comfort, energy...) to aspects of our own lives. In this correspondence special, we begin with some lovely feedback from a listener who made a new discovery via a previous prescription suggestion, then we dive into the two new requests, which are equally intriguing, and really showcase the kinds of questions we get so many of and adore researching (often for hours!) to find the perfect perfumes for. Let’s begin! Joanna said: ‘Dear Suzy and Nicola, I can’t thank you enough for your amazing affordable iris prescriptions! Both sound incredible and I will be definitely be hunting them down, especially Fragonard Belle de Paris! I especially want to thank you for your reviews of the new M&S perfumes. That episode came out shortly before my trip to England from the States, and I immediately added M&S to the itinerary! And WOW…Sheer Musk and Darkest Vanilla are incredible! M&S perfumes are unavailable in America, so had my trip been just a couple of weeks earlier I would have been completely out of luck, as I would never have considered exploring M&S as a perfume haven without your expert recommendation. I humbly beg you to do full reviews of the rest of the Studio lineup! I feel that the interests of promoting truly exquisite super-affordable, unique fragrances warrant such a podcast focus. Thank you for all you do for the fragrance community!!’ Listener prescriptions: Netta asks: ‘Hi! I recently discovered your podcast and I’m absolutely loving it. I’ve been binge listening and enjoying every episode!! I’ve always been obsessed with fragrance and smelling good, so it feels like I’ve finally found my people. I was wondering if you could recommend a perfume that’s similar to the discontinued Armani Privé Pierre de Lune. I absolutely loved it and have never managed to find anything that captures the same feeling. It had such a clean, soft, almost soapy quality while still feeling fresh and elegant. I’d be so grateful for any recommendations! Many thanks in advance, Netta.’ Daniela Andrier (well known for her love of iris) created Pierre de Lune, featuring violet, iris, cassia & woody notes. Suzy suggests: Prada Infusion d’Iris ‘This modern and elegant fragrance opens with notes of mandarin, galbanum, orange and orange blossom which lead to the heart composed of iris, cedar and vetiver. The base is composed of incense and benzoin.’ Fragonard Belle de Paris Another stunning iris scent by Daniela Andrier. And only £42 for 100ml eau de toilette! ‘Belle de paris is elegantly cloaked in iris, a symbol of chic, and wears its incomparable scent. Its fruity head notes of green mandarin, neroli, and pear brighten a generous heart of iris absolutely adorned with violet and incense. Musk and white cedar form its base.’ 27 87 Per sē ‘Per sē is our scent identity and the olfactive translation of our core belief: There is No Scent Like the Present. It combines the now. The achromatic, and the individual in a sensory experience. “In creating Per sē, we aimed to capture the very essence of the present moment. This fragrance is unparalleled; it ebbs and flows with the dynamism of change, yet its core remains strikingly constant. Just as time never stops, neither does ‘Per sē’. It serves as evidence of the enduring within the ever-changing.” Crafting a symphony of achromatic elegance, Per sē is composed of a floral bouquet, orris butter, and violet leaves. Juxtaposed with clean aldehydes, bamboo, and a pinch of spicy pepper, a subtle underscore of ambrette seeds, angelica roots, and gentle musk complete the incompletable experience of the sensory now.’ Nicola suggested: Diptyque Fleur de Peau ‘A tribute to the mythical love between Psyche and Eros, which led to the birth of their daughter, Hedone. One scent can convey this legend: musks. At the heart of Fleur de Peau, they are cottony, downy or soft. Highlighted with iris and ambrette seed, they reveal their full tactile dimension. Absolute ambrette seed extract comes from hibiscus flowers. Its notes are extraordinarily rich: sweet, slightly animal, fruity (like pear and plum).’ Madeline @rocknrollgypsy_13 asks: ‘Hello Suzy and Nicola! Fragrance goddesses! Long time listener of the pod, I work on a vineyard in the Hunter Valley NSW Australia and listening to both of you have gotten me through some long, long days working by myself. My name is Madeleine and I was wondering if you could give me a perfume prescription to empower and ground me. Apart from being a musician, one of my other passions is Muay Thai. As a female fighter I compete quite regularly, recently coming back from a life changing trip to Bangkok where I competed at the WBC games winning a silver medal for Australia. It was a tough fight and I know I could’ve done more to win that gold, but my mind always seems to stop me before I even step over the ropes. My mentality is something I always battle with, self-doubt, self-confidence and self-belief is always what I struggle with. This is a weird kind of prescription, but I would like something to wear before my fights, something that is empowering, fires me up, grounds me and makes me feel like I am an unstoppable force going into the ring to face my opponent. Think a goddess of war, powerful, strong, unbreakable and fierce. Something to spray on before I warm up, or walk into the ring that grounds me, centres me and reminds me of who I am. I am open to anything, as my love for perfume has grown so much since listening to you both. Much love always, thank you for all you do. Madeleine xx’ Nicola’s answer: Olfactive O New Earth ‘I am the host who cooks to the rhythm of the seasons, the one who pulls up an extra chair before you’ve even asked. I believe in the beauty of things made by hand - the thumbprint in the clay, the worn-in softness of a family heirloom. There is quiet joy in walking the same path every day and noticing the first green shoots of change. For me, luxury resides in the weight of a heavy linen shirt and the simple, rhythmic task of chopping herbs from the windowsill pot. I am a life lived in the present tense. NOTES: Luminous top: shiso, pink peppercorn, spearmint, elemi Present heart: deep-leaf immersion, armoise, geranium, chamomile blue, cardamom, clary sage Rooted base: hay absolute, fir balsam, oakmoss, myrrh MOMENTS: Nurturing my sourdough starter Fantasising of a life in the wilderness Leaving the bookshop with just one more A cup of tea in the garden Seeking out the perfect soulful escape’ Amouage Meander ‘The Amouage Meander eau de parfum explores the exhilarating feeling of happiness in a land covered by fog – think lush green mountains and running waterfalls covered in steamy clouds. Translating this surreal landscape using notes of frankincense and vetiver, the rich greenery with cypriol and jonquille, and the caramel-hued earth with sandalwood, carrot heart and orris root, this unique fragrance captivates the senses and doesn’t let go even hours after being spritzed on the pulses.’ Suzy’s answer: Eris Parfums Ma Bête ‘MA BÊTE (My Beast) caresses you with the suggestiveness of perfumed fur. A collision of the floral and the animal, MA BÊTE combines a regal Tunisian Neroli with spices and a 50 percent overdose of Antoine Lie's own animalic cocktail.’ ‘Ma Bête is a fierce beast with raunchy elegance.’ – Antoine Lie (Perfumer) Aldehydes, Tunisian Neroli, Indian Nutmeg Indian Cypriol, Honduran Styrax, Indian Jasmine Sambac Virginia Cedarwood, Indonesian Patchouli, Synthetic Animalic Accord ‘After interviewing Master Perfumer Antoine Lie for Scent and Subversion, Barbara asked him to help her create a collection of fragrances as bold as her favourite vintage perfumes but for a modern audience. Named after ERIS, the Greek goddess of troublemaking and disruption, ERIS PARFUMS is inspired by muses — divine, human, and fragrant — that exemplify unconventional beauty and...

Okay, we all know vanilla has been trending for ages now, but WHY does it prove so popular? We think half the reason is the sheer diversity of vanillas available, and the incredibly high-quality materials perfumers are able to use these days. Plus the fact that vanilla continues to be one of the most universally adored scents. Love them or loathe them, we feel sure there’s truly something for every taste (and maybe some that will surprise or even shock you) in this week’s episode... Now, obviously, we mean five favourites *each*, we couldn’t possibly contain them all to only five vanillas when there are SO many excellent varieties of vanilla fragrances around these days. We have to say, though, f you’re a vanilla naysayer, please don’t shy away from this episode, as we’ve versions that segue from the just-launched and fabulously tobacco-filled, the sweetly tempting and addictive you might expect, to the mind-blowingly modern and unlike any vanilla you’ve ever smelled. Encompassing hip-swivelling seduction, a stunning body butter, hugely powerful fragrant talismans, and summery every-day wearability, there’s also a truly affordable modern classic vanilla – created by a Master Perfumer who trained at Chanel, created scents for Frederic Malle, Guerlain, Gucci, Amouage and Atkinsons, but THIS one can be snapped up for under £30! While some of our top vanillas crossed over, we also surprised each other with some of our choices. Now then, which have YOU tried or want to go and smell after listening...? We discuss: D’Orsay Vanilla Affair Extrait By Nathalie Lorson ‘Immerse yourself in the captivating mystique of D’ORSAY, with Vanilla Affair extrait de parfum transforming your everyday allure into one of intriguing elegance. Its scent – reminiscent of forbidden encounters and fierce passion – is infused with riveting notes of tobacco and tonka bean, deepened with a vanilla duo, and grounded with a smoky base of white musks and patchouli. No matter the occasion, its aromatic blend of exhilarating notes will elevate your essence with ease.’ The Body Shop Vanilla Body Butter ‘This indulgent cream melts in beautifully, delivering up to 96 hours of hydration without greasiness. Skin feels instantly softer, smoother and cared for. The fragrance opens with juicy nashi pear and fresh coconut water, lifted by mood orchid. At its heart, rich Madagascar vanilla tincture blends with upcycled vanillin ex rice, creamy milk and heliotrope for a smooth, enveloping warmth. It settles into a sensual base of vanilla absolute, sandalwood and second skin musk for a long lasting, skin hugging finish. Every application is a warm, comforting routine.’ Jovoy Fire at Will ‘This perfume’s sweet promises echo around your like languorous kisses. Crafted by independent perfumer Vanina Murraciole, Fire at Will eau de parfum from JOVOY explores the duality of vanilla and mimosa – at once intense yet subtle, seductive yet enchanting. The opening reveals an unexpected vanilla: airy and ethereal, lifted by honeyed, powdery mimosa. As it evolves, the vanilla becomes more gourmand and fruity, evoking the delicacy of real vanilla ice cream while lingering with the allure of whispered promises.’ Top Notes: Mimosa Absolut, Vanilla Absolut Middle Notes: Vanilla Sugar, Brown Sugar Base Notes: White Musks, Amber Vetiver Maison Louis Marie No.15 Vanille Infinie ‘Vanille Infinie, a luxurious and sweet gourmand, is a celebration of hope and renewal. No.15 Vanille Infinie unfolds as a warm, luminous composition, soft vanilla layered with citron, sugared amber and cashmere oud for gentle resinous warmth. The Eau de Parfum evolves naturally on skin, shifting with your body heat to reveal a smooth, enveloping trail that feels both intimate and enduring.’ Jeroboam Insulo ‘For François Hénin, the founder of Jeroboam, vanilla has always been the absolute weapon of seductive souls. The ingredient is recognized throughout the world as an irresistible enticement to be devoured. Insulo (meaning ‘island’ in Esperanto) is used in this case as a code name for Madagascar, the island which produces perhaps the highest quality and most famous vanilla in the world. The olfactive pyramid of Insulo is incredibly simple with vanilla at the top, jasmine at the heart and the signature blend of enigmatic musks at the base. These few notes combine to produce a luxurious and irresistible.’ AKRO Bake ‘Bake is our addictive cupcake fragrance. Everyone has their own favourite sweet treat, and for Akro, it's the small, but perfectly delicious lemon cupcake—an item we just can’t resist any time we walk past a good bakery. To honour our favourite cupcakes, we created BAKE, a gourmand fragrance made up of Tart Lemon notes, followed by sweet Vanilla and rich, nutty Praline. BAKE is so good, you might not need that second cupcake after all. TOP: Lemon peel MIDDLE: Chantilly cream, Praline BASE: Brown sugar, Vanilla.’ Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder ‘A sophisticated take on vanilla, diffusing like a bright, soft cloud. I contrasted dark vanilla absolute with an overdose of modern white perfumer powders — as if the vanilla bean had been painted white. Palo Santo Oil Ecuador brings structure and verticality. The addictive character of Vanilla is reinforced by Coconut powder. White Musks envelop the Vanilla and powders for a contemporary, luminous perfume.’ - Aurélien Guichard Rochas Tocade One of THE best vanillas if you’re on a budget. Or even if you’re not, come to that! ‘Originally launched in 1994, and composed by Maurice Roucel, Rochas Tocade opens with a vibrant burst of bergamot and green notes, setting the stage for a heart that blooms with the rich aromas of rose, geranium, and magnolia. These floral elements are beautifully balanced by the warmth of vanilla and amber, creating a harmonious blend that is both sensual and inviting. The base notes of musk and cedarwood add depth and longevity, ensuring that this enchanting fragrance lingers on your skin throughout the day.’

Season 8, Episode 7 Alice du Parcq & The Philosophy of Perfume (her NEW BOOK!) This week we welcome back dear perfume pal and friend of the pod (star of two previous episodes), the multi-award-winning fragrance writer, presenter, content creator and now AUTHOR, Alice du Parcq! Alice has always been ‘on a mission to decode perfume in a fun, relatable and objective way.’ Now, added to her perfumed portfolio will be an incredibly gift- able (to self or scent-loving friends) book, created in collaboration with none other than The British Library, called The Philosophy of Perfume. Out in October, we cannot WAIT to read it, and in this episode, Alice gives us a sneak peek at what you expect to find inside, plus the entire story of how the book came to be, and why she burst into tears in a library. We’ve even managed to wangle a must-sniff list of perfumes Alice has been wowed by so far this year (not in the book, just a little scented extra to get you scurrying to smell them). We loved this warm, emotive, wide-ranging conversation and, as ever, could have talked to Alice for hours longer, and we so hope you enjoy this deep dive into one of the most hotly anticipated books for some time... Some context about the British Library and this collection: ‘The British Library has an in-house publishing division, and they have an established collection of around 18 books called "The Philosophy Of...". It's a family of small giftable books that cover fun and whimsical lifestyle topics, such The Philosophy of Cheese, The Philosophy of Christmas of Gin, of Tattoos and of Houseplants, where an expert in that specific field dives into the origins and evolution of that subject. In January, I was invited to do The Philosophy of Perfume and it will sit within this collection but as a slightly longer and more standout format. It's out in October, in time for the gifting season, and the RRP is £12.99.’ About the book: ‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In the book, you'llmeet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for perfume and find The One(s!). It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their next scent shopping safari.’ Can’t wait until October? You can see Alice talking live, interviewed by the wonderful Amanda Carr (founder of Barnes Fragrance Fair @barnesfragrancefair) at the Barnes Bookfest sat 26 th September at 6pm, and get tickets and more info here: https://barnesbookfest.org/ Fragrances Alice has adored so far this year: Pia Long’s Olfiction Iconic (by name and nature! An utterly staggering vision of 1980s department stores, expensive makeup and body creams – nostalgia personified) Botega Venetta’s new Ulta collection (especially Bare Morning which Alice feels is the longest-lasting most comforting powdery scent she’s smelled for years) Hellenist (all of them basically – a stunning house Suzy first saw at Pitti Fragranze, and which we all very much hope will be available in U.K. soon) Neal’s Yard Remedies Mood Awakening Collection (Alice loved how true these felt to the brand’s ethos, and how they slotted so perfectly into their most beloved collections) Ode Ona (all of them, again – an exquisitely crafted and curated collection, all worth exploring)

This week is a truly madcap sniffathon HOPEFULLY encompassing [*takes a deep breath*] wild seascapes, fragrant ghosts and a notorious rake; a spicy summer scent to set your senses tingling; a fruity treat based on a perfumer’s favourite breakfast; a splendiferous peacock strutting its scented stuff; a stunning sueded rose; perfumes pulled straight from the vegetable patch; Harrods exclusives to swoon over; a seriously affordable new niche house; a mesmerising myrrh, and Alice du Parcq’s book pre-order discount code… AND if all that wasn’t enough, we’re also answering a #listenerprescription for a jasmine fragrance to remind her of a dance while wearing jasmine garlands. Phew! Can we possibly fit it all in without going off-topic? Listen along and find out! BeauFort London continued: Following on from last week’s fascinating interview with founder Leo Crabtree, Nicola tries a trio of intriguing scents: Cape Wrath ‘Cape Wrath Eau De Parfum. Named after the rugged area of coastline on the most North Westerly tip of Britain, Cape Wrath pulls inspiration from this wild, treacherous seascape. The remote landmark - named after the old Norse word for ‘turning point’ has for centuries been used by sailors to safely navigate the coast of Britain, yet its treacherous waters have claimed countless vessels. Character: Powerful; wild; windswept

 THE WEARING EXPERIENCE Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Elemi, Galbanum, Angelica Root
Opens with a blast of bracing ocean air. Heart Notes: Frankincense, Mastic, Geranium
Resinous smoke and geranium add both warmth and austerity. Base Notes: Ambergris, Vetiver, Ambrette, Seaweed, Oakmoss Absolute
Mossy oceanic base which powerfully lingers. Perfumer: Euan McCall Absent Presence ‘‘O absent presence, Stella is not here’ The fifth and final instalment of the Revenants collection draws inspiration from the Elizabethan poet Sir Philip Sidney. In his Sonnet sequence ‘Astrophel and Stella’ Sidney develops and captures the essence of a haunting… the presence of one that is always felt but never seen. ‘Now I, wit-beaten long by hardest fate, So dull am, that I cannot look into The ground of this fierce love and lovely hate, Then some good body tell me how I do, Whose presence absence, absent presence is; Blesst in my curse, and cursed in my bliss.’ Comprising the highest level of natural ingredients of any BeauFort fragrance, Absent Presence explores its themes with typically ‘overdosed’ concentrations of violet leaf absolute, vetiver bourbon oil, smoky leather and black pepper oil. As with all the Revenants family, Absent Presence is presented as 30% Eau De Parfum. Character: Dark; enveloping; waves. THE WEARING EXPERIENCE Top Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Pepper
Fresh, green, and fleeting felt but out of reach. Heart Notes: Jasmine, Violet
 Jasmine and violet bloom with intensity. Base Notes: Leather, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Cedarwood 
Warm leather, woods, amber and musk linger like a ghost on the skin, the violet heart returning in waves. Perfumer: Julie Dunkley.’ Rake & Ruin ‘Rake & Ruin Eau De Parfum is inspired by the works of satirist William Hogarth, this fragrance summons his characters from a gin soaked 18th century London. This debauched Eau De Parfum incorporates the botanical ingredients of gin; dark woods, civet, musks and amber bringing to life 'all manner of Vice and Wickedness.’

THE WEARING EXPERIENCE Top Notes: Angelica, Liquorice, Juniper, Coriander, Szechuan Pepper, Pink Pepper, Orange, Lemon
Opens with a sharp, gin-like freshness, spiced and effervescent. Heart Notes: Cypress, Pine Needles, Castoreum, Labdanum, Cade Oil, Costus, Violet Orris
Bowing to a heart of smoky woods, animalic tones and powdered florals. Base Notes: Dark Woods, Ambrarome, Sandalwood, Musk
Dark woods, musk and animalic. Ambrarome complete the seductive yet slightly sinister finish.’ Alice du Parcq’s book: The Philosophy of Perfume Pre-order at Waterstones for £10 (25% off with code SUMMER26) https://tinyurl.com/AliceWaterstones ‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In the book, you'll meet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for perfume and find The One(s!).  It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their next scent shopping safari.’ AKRO Heat ‘HEAT is our addictive chili fragrance. Chili is not just a spice. It is a rush. A burn you think you can handle. The first time you smell it, it hits, it wakes you up. Then it warms you. Then you want it again. The best chili doesn’t just flavour. It ignites. It makes your skin tingle. Your temperature rise. Your pulse quicken. Your senses sharpen. HEAT is that moment when warmth turns into craving. When your body asks for more. A vibrant indulgence. A dopamine shot you keep coming back to. HEAT is a scent that sets you on fire and makes you love the burn. TOP: CORIANDER SEED, LEMON, RED CHILI MIDDLE: CARDAMOM, GINGER, JUNIPER BASE: CEDARWOOD, AMBROX, MUSK.’ Jeroboam Oud Morning By Vanina Muracciole ‘Oud Morning from Jeroboam is the perfect balance of brightness and depth. Opening with an unexpected burst of blueberry, saffron and resins, the composition moves into a heart of Indian oud, softened with leather and aged woods. Sandalwood, ambroxan and white musk anchor it into a smooth, sensual base, finishing the creation on an intimate note. Top Notes: Blueberry, Gurjum Balsam, Saffron Middle Notes: Indian Oudh, Leather, Dry Wood, Violet Base Notes: Sugar, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, White Musks.’ Alexandre J Royal Peacock (Harrods Exclusive) ‘At the turn of the 20th century, Art Nouveau reshaped the decorative arts. Mucha, Gallé, Tiffany, Lalique, all drew on nature to invent a new grammar of curves, stylised plants and extraordinary birds. Among them, the peacock reigned supreme: its iridescent eyes and regal bearing embodied the movement's core belief in beauty for beauty's sake. The opening evokes an Italian espresso served with Viennese pastry. Roasted coffee dialogues with hazelnut in a frankly gourmand accord, before maple syrup brings its unmistakable amber roundness, sweet without cloying, almost woody. Caramel amplifies the indulgence, while violet casts a powdery floral veil that keeps the composition from tipping into excess. The vanilla-almond base settles into a lasting, addictive warmth.’ Ormonde Jayne Suede Silhouette ‘Bathed in crimson and violet, Suede Silhouette reflects the warmth of saffron, the richness of raspberry and the quiet confidence of suede. Exclusively at Selfridges.’ Jo Malone London Veggies collection: Celine Roux says: ‘We just loved that people, even in the middle of cities like London, can grow their own carrots and herbs – the fact that everyone wants to have a grasp on nature from wherever they are. This [collection] takes that idea of something homegrown and unmanicured but gives it a fresh take’ Velvety Butternut: ‘The path ahead is smooth, just like a velvety butternut playfully plucked from the veggie patch. Notes of smooth butternut, warm tonka bean and patchouli create a woody gourmand scent. Top - Ginger Spicy and fresh with a zingy lemon quality, it opens the fragrance with lively brightness. Heart - Butternut Smooth and nutty, notes of butternut imbues the fragrance with a delicious warmth and creaminess. Base - Patchouli Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the longevity of the fragrance.’ Carrot Blossom: ‘Life is sweet, just like carrot blossom gloriously gathered from the veggie patch. Notes of subtly sweet carrot, orange flower and white musk create a fresh floral scent. Top - Fennel Herbaceous with hints of aniseed, it adds a dewy sweetness to the top notes. Heart - Carrot Blossom Lightly floral and sweet, with an earthy accent, complementing the powdery notes of orris. Base - Patchouli Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the longevity of the fragrance.’ Suzy’s favourite: Scarlet Beetroot ‘Colour is all around, just like a scarlet beetroot splendidly spied in the veggie patch. Notes of beetroot, vibrant blackcurrant and a dash of...

[AD: This episode is proud to be in partnership with BeauFort London - a house Suzy has championed from the start, spoken about passionately over the years, and continues to be excited by.] From a single, hand-poured moustache wax to one of the world’s most daringly distinctive fragrance houses, BeauFort London’s story is as elemental as the scents themselves. Founded in 2013 by musician Leo Crabtree, the brand was born from salt-spray memories, naval histories and a fascination with the poetry of smoke — quite literally “per fumum” (‘through smoke’). In this episode of On The Scent Podcast, Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn sit down with Leo to trace that journey: from the formative fragrances he wore as a teenager to the moment he realised scent could become a storytelling medium for his fascinations with maritime might, Shakespearean drama, and the awe-inspiring power of nature. With the launch of Come Hell Or High Water in 2015 — featuring the now-iconic Tonnerre, Coeur de Noir and Vi et Armis — BeauFort London set out its stall with unapologetically bold compositions, rich in unusual materials and deliberately ‘overdosed’ in their intensity. As you listen, you will hear Suzy, Nicola and Leo smelling some of the creations together — Nicola encountering them properly for the first time, while Suzy revisits fragrances she has worn and championed for years, having known Leo since the brand’s earliest days and even helping to shape the direction of Fathom V. Together, we delve into the inspirations behind the scents, the emotions they stir, and the evolving landscape of perfumery that Leo reflects upon with candour. It is a conversation about transformation — personal, creative, and within the industry itself — and one that invites you to explore these boldly original fragrances for yourself…

Embracing the heat, and leaning into the ‘Sunscreen Scent’ perfume profile this week, we’re following on from the BONUS episode originally available to Patreon subscribers (which should soon be available here too - keep checking & scroll back in your podcast app to find it), in which we explored our favourite scented sunscreens. Flipping that fragrant theme on its head, this time we’re all about those solar, ‘holiday in a bottle’ type perfumes, and find ourselves particularly drawn to those with a vintage vibe. Later in the episode, Nicola answers a listener question from someone who had fallen head over heels for spicy tonka / vanilla fragrances way out of her budget, and seeks affordable scents to satiate this new obsession… We discuss; Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum This first launched in 2012, and was created by Serge Majoullier (who also created Mugler Womanity Eau Pour Elle and Viktor&Rolf Bonbon). Top notes are Orange Blossom, Mandarin Orange, Orange and Bergamot; middle notes are Gardenia, Magnolia and Rose; base notes are Coconut Milk, Vanilla and Pebbles. DIOR La Collection Privé Eden-Roc We rather suspect that Dior’s resident perfumer, François Demachy, enjoyed even more than usual his ‘research’ for this fragrance, a hymn to one of the world’s most legendary hotels, on the rocky shore of the Côte d’Azur. Flooded with sunlight, it’s cooled and ruffled by a salty breeze, revealing an accord reminiscent of nothing so much as expensive suntan oil, suffused with jasmine and a touch of coconut. Truly the stuff of holiday dreams. Juliette Has a Gun Sunny Side Up Ohhh allow yourself to dream of a scented destination somewhere more far flung. Close your eyes and imagine an impossibly perfect beach: warm sand, warm skin, an omnipresent hush of crystal waters massaging brightly coloured pebbles and your own deep, contented breaths. Sunny Side Up is all blissfully relaxed limbs glowing with the retro-smelling scent of suntan oil, the softness of the blanket beneath you and a waft of vanilla ice-cream on the breeze as the sun dips its toes in the ocean. Bliss in fragrant form! Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière ‘Like an haute couture dress, Elie Saab fragrances adorn the feminine form, with a radiant sensuality. Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière captures the sensual sparkle of light. The Dawn. The time when night meets day, when a ray of light softly glides across the darkness and reveals the golden hues of daybreak. Inspired by Mediterranean sun rays, Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière is an ode of warm light.’ Top notes Mandarin Essence, Ylang-Ylang Heart notes Jasmine Samac Absolut India, Tuberose Base notes Patchouli, Musky Woods & Soft amber Tom Ford Soleil ‘Soleil Brûlant captures the high-shine brilliance of the golden sun beaming on a private oasis. Sun-kissed citrus mingles with spices giving way to an ornate and regal floral heart—while orange flower absolute and black honey release a seductive vapor, melting into the burnished warmth of amber. Soleil Brûlant releases sun-kissed florals warmed by amber, conjuring a blazing encounter between gilded rays and naked skin. Your own private summer.’ Jennifer Elizabeth: Hi Nicola and Suzy, I find myself turning to your podcast and fragrance in general to comfort and sweeten my day during the cold winter in Melbourne. I am really enjoying my perfume journey and recently discovered a Libertine Parfumerie near me! I got a sample of Amouge, guidance and Tonka Kumaru Atelier Materi. I didn’t think I would like the spicy saffron in Guidance but I have really warmed to it! And now expanding my tastes into spicy fragrances with a bit of heat. I absolutely love Tonka Kumaru it has become my favourite! Unfortunately both perfumes are way above my budget, and I was wondering if you have any recommendations for a similar fragrance with tonka, vanilla, almond and a spice. I find this fragrance very complex and addictive and its projection is amazing, so it would be may to find something under 100 pounds . I love this scent so much I’d also like to find a candle with similar almond and cardamon notes. I also like Vanilla Powder Matiere Premier. Ps I am so happy I can walk into Mecca or libertine and identity so many of the perfumes from your podcast! It brings me such joy! Nicola’s suggestions: Essential Parfums Divine Vanilla Granado Tonka Eau de Toilette L'Occitane Almond Candle Mama Moon Prosperity and Courage Candle Scents Journey - Masala Chai Candle Jsala - Apothecary Candle

Talk about varied - we go from a ‘posh banana’ Brazilian carnival in a bottle Nicola experienced at a vibrantly fun perfume pop-up in Liberty, to an extraordinary, burning, bloodied rose Suzy’s entranced by (don’t worry - it’s not as scary as it sounds!) We’re also featuring two incredibly inspirational women on this week’s show - one who’s created her own fragrance brand to reflect a life lived in scent and adventure, and another who’s bringing the playfulness back into perfumery by allowing you (and your friends) to attend a blending workshop via Zoom - to create your own fragrance with her stunning and easy-to-use accords. A whole group of the #fragfam (Suzy, Nicola, Jo, Alice du Parcq, Amanda Carr, Thomas & Hayden attended a Zoom, and we were HUGELY impressed, plus love the scents we blended!) Amidst all of that there’s talk of a naughty Toy Boy who’s back in town, and Suzy finds two exquisite (and very affordable) iris-forward fragrances for a listener. Plus: get the second issue of On The Scent magazine which has just been published and is already flying out again! Order online here: https://www.onthescentmedia.com/on-the-scent-magazine Now, on with the show, and let’s jump in… We discuss: Granado Yes, Nós Temos Banana! The Brazilian brand has taken over Liberty’s historic Atrium for the whole of July with a huge banana pop-up! Do see it in-person if you can. They say: ‘Evoking the tropical vibrance of Brazil in olfactive form, Yes, Nós Temos Banana! eau de parfum from Granado is an invigorating addition to any fragrance collection. Anchored by a classic, woody base of sandalwood and cedar, this fragrance combines vibrant notes of banana and peach blossom with the romantic delicacy of fig and iris, while highlighting banana leaf as the protagonist of the creation - spritz onto skin for a breath of escapism.’ L’Entropiste Ensang Noir [From Sainte Cellier] ‘This rose is on fire… Ensang Noir is an extraordinarily pungent rose perfume, sanguineous red petals stained with black ink, rusted at the bleeding edges. A scent of temptation, danger and the ritualistic fumes of burnt love. Fanatical, obsessive. Skin becomes an altar for this most plush and smoky offering.’ Top Notes: aldehydes, blackcurrant, coriander, cucumber Heart Notes: red rose, magnolia, peony Base Notes: incense, birch, opoponax, patchouli, vetiver, caramel Moschino ToyBoy 2 ‘Moschino’s celebrated fragrance for him is back! This time, the new TOY BOY 2 will take you on a sensory journey that opens with a spicy spark and closes with an amber caress. Toy boy 2 comes alive with an explosion of intriguing nutmeg and sparkling ginger and sets out on a quest to start a journey of lively and ironic charm, to escape from the daily greyness by retracing distant but ever-present emotions. It wraps you in a warm embrace of intense coffee, while akigalawood adds a bold touch. As the adventure continues, it leaves behind a soft trail of myrrh and vetiver, comforting you and promising even more surprises.’ Top notes saffron accord, nutmeg Indonesia, fresh ginger Heart notes coffee extract, cedarwood, akigalawood Base notes cistus concrete, vetiver oul, myrrh resinoid Liz Astor Fragrances ‘Three perfumes, three chapters of a life lived through fragrance. From an English garden to distant horizons and star-filled nights — each captures a moment in Liz Astor’s journey: where she began, where she wandered, and what she became.’ HETHERSETT ‘Hethersett is a return to origin — a chypre–fruity fragrance that feels like sunlight through orchard branches and summer gardens in full bloom. Each breath reveals the early whispers of creativity: petals, citrus, and memory intertwined. Bright, romantic, rooted — the scent of home becoming art. Olfactory Notes Orange • Citron • Jasmine • Magnolia • Orange Blossom • Saffron • Cedarwood • Musk From £40 for 7.5ml 8.7°S 118.3°E ‘The coordinates point to a remote stretch of the Indonesian sea — a place etched in Liz Astor’s travels, when she chased adventure beyond familiar shores. 8.7°S 118.3°E captures the spirit of exploration — the scent of salt spray and sunlight, the pulse of courage, and the thrill of finding beauty in the unknown. It is both fearless and fluid, an ode to self-discovery carried on the ocean wind. Tone Wild, radiant, unbound — freedom bottled in light and sea air. Olfactory Notes Bergamot • Mandarin • Grapefruit • Clary Sage • Jasmine • Patchouli • Vetiver’ From £40 for 7.6ml eau de parfum Nadira No.9 ‘Nadira No.9 evokes the sensual hush of desert air beneath a vast night sky — where time slows and the spirit expands. It’s a fragrance of reverence and reflection, born of distant travels and the quiet awe of standing beneath a thousand unfamiliar. Soft, luminous, intimate — starlight woven through spice and skin.’ Amber • Musk • Night-blooming Florals • Spiced Woods’ From £70 for 7.5ml parfum Discovery Set: £25 for x3 samples Purchase the collection for £25 — this is fully redeemable against a future purchase of any 75ml fragrance once you’ve chosen your favourite. https://lizastor.com Elix perfume blending workshop (via Zoom) Nicole founder Elix because: ‘Scent is uniquely powerful, yet we rarely have the opportunity to play and experiment with it. After a career in product innovation and creative facilitation, I returned to my childhood dream of perfume alchemy. Artisan perfumery became my creative outlet during lockdown, and I was inspired by the joy and mindfulness it brought into my life. I founded ELIX Personal Alchemyto share that playful magic with others and make artisan personalised perfumery more accessible.’ ‘Our hand-crafted Eau de Toilette blending accords harmonise beautifully in endless combinations. Blend 2–4 accords together to create a range of scents that evolve with your mood, style or occasion; or enjoy them solo. Our luxury set contains everything you need to enjoy a mindful personal ritual or a shared creative experience at home. Our curated collections are inspired by some of the most-loved accord combinations created during our live workshops, and include a selection of popular blending ideas to inspire your own journey. • Up to 70% naturally derived ingredients l • Blending accords can be worn alone or combined • Two refillable atomisers with replenishable elements • Additional accords available individually • Hand-crafted and hand-packed in the U.K.’ £149 Personal Alchemy Blending Kit https://www.elixfragrance.com Listener Prescription: Joanna Caccavo: Dear Suzy and Nicola, First of all, a big congratulations on the new magazine! It is absolutely mouthwatering and Suzy’s prose is exquisite - I MUST read more! I am also eager for a perfume prescription for an affordable ($100 or under) very iris-forward fragrance. I’m accustomed to seeing iris perfumes raved about online, but they tend to be quite pricy. However, I recently blind-bought Zara’s Romance d’Iris Elixir, which is almost an iris soliflore and about $70, and I fell head-over-heels in love! I know that iris is a note in many fragrances, both expensive and inexpensive, but in my (admittedly limited!) experience it’s usually quite subtle. Surely there must be other affordable super-iris-y perfumes out there? (They needn’t smell only of iris, but I’d like that to be the dominant note.) Thank you! :) Suzy suggested: Fragonard Belle de Paris Composed by Daniela Andrier (of Prada Infusion d’Iris fame!) here,;lbase notes are Musk and White Cedar Extract. ‘Belle de Paris is elegantly cloaked in iris, a symbol of chic, and wears its incomparable scent. Its fruity head notes of green mandarin, neroli, and pear brighten a generous heart of iris absolute adorned with violet and incense. Musk and white cedar form its base.’ Top Notes: neroli, pear and green mandarin; Heart Notes: iris, violet and incense Base Notes: musk and white cedar extract. €42 for 100ml eau de toilette 4160 Tuesdays Hush Hush ‘Imagine a secret 1920s party, the perfumes that people are wearing are the new things: violets and iris, vanilla and musks. They're wearing smart suits and straight silk dresses with beaded tassels. Someone opens a new paper packet of cigarettes, and they all whip out their elegant holders, even the women! It has a powdery feel reminiscent of early 20th Century perfumes, because we both love the violet-iris texture and aroma created by ionones and irones, including those from natural orris (slightly extravagant but worth every penny). Among the many materials assembled here to create a completely new scent, we have a smidgen of natural rose, a fair quantity of Cashmeran, woods, sparkly orange flower, bergamot, creamy ethyl vanillin and layers of musks.’ £35 for 15ml eau de toilette