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Lander local shop owner, author and prolific route developer Jake Dickerson joins me on the pod today! Jake's routes are beloved in the Lander area. With over 50 routes to his name (including routes at the hilariously named 'Jake's World'), he has some great thoughts about how to approach route development in the Lander area.  He is also part owner of Wild Iris Mountain Sports, a fantastic shop that serves as an unofficial hub for the Lander Climbing community. After working there for years, he stepped into the role of part-owner in 2023. You'll hear about that transition, and the deep importance of supporting your local gear shop.  Jake recently published a novel! He'll tell us all about his twisted sci-fi/western Gunsmoke Over Lander. Grab your copy at Wild Iris Mountain Sports (or if you absolutely have to, you can also get it on Amazon).  If you’re craving more First Ascent during that time, join the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and an ever growing library of Jay’s musings. Plus you’ll get exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Tim DeRoehn is that underground climber that everyone knows. Climbing since the 90s, his history spans Rumney, Boulder, dirtbagging across the west and now residing in Chattanooga, TN.  Today, Tim shares how the culture at Rumney has changed over the last 20+ years, and why he thinks the changes are for the better. He explains his long time love for soloing and details how he navigated the personal risks involved. Then, Jay and Tim debate whether or not new beta on a route changes the route entirely.  Plus - Tim shares the thing about Jay that’s always annoyed him, Tim and Jay start the Barracuda Support Club, and why Rumney keeps you humble.  If you’re craving more First Ascent during that time, join the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and an ever growing library of Jay’s musings. Plus you’ll get exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Former X Games speed climbing gold medalist Aaron Shamy joins the podcast today for a deep conversation about how climbing affects our identities and can influence us to become better members of society. A longtime local of American Fork outside of Salt Lake City, Aaron is a member of the LDS church and also shares about how his faith forms his approach to life, and how his religion is seen within the (often non-spiritual) climbing community.  Plus - What it was like to compete (and win!) in the X Games, Jay and Aaron consider doing American Ninja Warrior, Jay and Aaron’s skin care tips, and why gates in is the way.  If you’re craving more First Ascent during that time, join the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and an ever growing library of Jay’s musings. Plus you’ll get exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Longtime friend of the pod Ethan Edwards joins me today to chat about injuries, retrobolting, and the importance of public lands.  Ethan will detail his surgery and recovery process from a skiing injury, and he’ll share how he’s approached training during this time so that he can be in the best shape possible once he’s completed convalescence.  Then, he’ll tell us all about his retrobolting/rebolting project at Crow Hill in Massachusetts. We’ll discuss the delicate process of the importance of social buy in for retrobolting projects and how he navigated the situation in a way that seemed to appeal to everyone involved.  If you live in the west and you believe in the importance of our public lands, please call your representatives to tell them to support keeping public lands protected!  We have almost reached our fundraising goal for the new parking lot at Miriam Woods/Russell Crag! Help us get over the top by donating at https://www.centralnhclimbers.org/ Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Oh how the tables have turned! Jim Lawyer takes the interviewer’s mic and turns the spotlight onto Jay in an interview that will give you more insight into our host than ever before.  You’ll learn about how Jay became obsessed with climbing, what brought him to New Hampshire, the first ascent he felt was worth ‘risking a friendship over’, the number one thing he’d like to change about climbing culture, and even his feelings about being a rare and shunned ‘gates in’ climber.  First Ascent is going into summer mode! Starting now, we’ll begin releasing episodes every other week to more fully enjoy the best part of the climbing season.  If you’re craving more First Ascent during that time, join the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and an ever growing library of Jay’s musings. Plus you’ll get exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today at First Ascent we honor the incredible Lee Hansche on the one year anniversary of his passing. So many of us are missing Lee today, so we have compiled a highlight reel featuring some of Lee’s best moments from the 96 episodes that he co-hosted on The First Ascent Podcast. You’ll hear clips that reflect Lee’s wisdom, humor, relationships, love of life, and even his fashion sense.  We miss you, Lee!  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay is joined by his mom Susan and his sister Suzanne to discuss Susan’s recent backpacking trip to Torres del Paine and Mt. Fitz Roy in Patagonia, and how challenging treks like this are central to her approach to aging.  You’ll hear about:  Why at 72 years old Susan chose to take the ‘Challenging’ trip as opposed to the ‘comfort trip’ The pros and cons Susan has experienced as she’s continued to push your body despite age What Susan has gained from a life of challenging herself physically The mental game of staying at your top possible performance as you age  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Members of the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association are on the pod today to share full details about the current status of climbing and development at Merriam Woods/Russell Crag. Things are in full swing and we need your help! Jay is joined by Chris Vaughn, Katie Vaughn and Mike Gagnon to tell you all about it:  We’ll talk about:  The current state of access to Merriam Woods and Russell CragCNHCA’s recent land purchase to build a parking lot for Merriam WoodsThe work CNHCA is putting in to develop routes and further access in the areaHow you can get involved with the development of Merriam Woods!   Visit www.centralnhclimbers.org to support our mission of developing Merriam Woods Reach out at [email protected] with any questions or if you’d like to get involved.  CNHCA will be at these events coming up! Join us:  May 30th at The Concord Climbing Gym 6-8pm June 7th at Twin Barns in North Woodstock in the evening For more information about events, follow CNHCA on Instagram @centralnhclimbers Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Author, philosopher, and long time climber Francis Sanzaro is back on the pod to dive into how to manage your mindset (for both climbing and life) during times of loss, grief, overwhelm, or even just less than perfect conditions.  Francis is the author of The Zen of Climbing, a must read for any climber seeking to develop a stronger mindset toward climbing. His first episode on First Ascent Pod can be heard here.  We’ll cover:  Navigating grief with a zen approachHow deep emotions like grief and loss can affect you as a climber Jay’s experience trying Francis’s zen approach to climbing in Killer Cave Why you need to stop waiting for a flow state in order to climbThe surprising mindset approach of a pro climber  Why you need to get past chasing a dopamine hit to heighten your performance Check out all of Francis’s incredible writing at www.fsanzaro.com Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Few people have amassed a more impressive resume in the outdoors than climber, mountaineer, and author Conrad Anker. Just read his Wikipedia page, for starters! Included in Conrad’s accolades are two summits of Everest under his belt (including one where he found George Mallory’s body), a prolific list of first ascents around the globe, and a 26 year history as the lead of the North Face Climbing Team.  Today, Conrad shares stories, insights and wisdom from almost a half century of climbing.  You’ll hear about:  His experience at the center of the sport climbing boom in the 80s and 90sConrad’s approach to bolting and how it has changed through the decadesHow Conrad has dealt with the grief of losing beloved climbing partnersThe psychology of risk The incredible legacy and history of route names Our responsibilities toward the environment and culture as climbersHow professional climbing has changed since the beginning of his career  Check out more about Conrad’s incredible career at www.conradanker.com  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

New Hampshire native and author Ty Gagne joins the pod today to discuss the harrowing and heroic history of rescues in the White Mountains. Ty shares his in depth knowledge on some of the most well known rescues in The Whites, and what we can learn from them in regards to decision making, leadership and risk management. We’ll also discuss how the members of search and rescue (many of them volunteers!) view their important work, and why we should check our judgement on the ‘mistakes’ that people make when they find themselves in need of high risk rescue.  Ty’s books are available for purchase here:  Lions of Winter: Survival and Sacrifice on Mount Washington The Last Traverse: Tragedy and Resilience in the Winter Whites Where You’ll Find Me: Risks, Decisions, and the Last Climb of Kate Matrosova Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Rumney climber Miguel Lopez has been racking up some major sends lately (check out his recents sends of Butt Bongo and Rocketman) But what has this 5.13 climber been enjoying just as much? Dumpster diving - the exercise of sending routes with 2 or less stars on Mountain Project.  Miguel shares why he started this practice, and how it’s benefited his ‘climbing menu’ as he works to balance his progression as a climber with enjoying the ride.  Plus, we’ll talk about how the culture at Waimea has changed (for the better?) and our thoughts on if the Monsters crag (and specifically, Parallel Universe) is sinking.  Check out Miguel’s climbs on Instagram @miguelprojects Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  You can now subscribe to First Ascent Pod on Youtube!  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Dave Groth is one of the undisputed forefathers of Devil’s Lake climbing. With over 40 years of climbing under his belt, he joins me full of tales about the evolution of Devil’s Lake and his legendary climbing exploits across the US and the globe.   You’ll hear about Dave’s experiences at Yosemite, Eldorado Canyon & Waco (where legend Ron Kauk crashed at his apartment!); climbing in the early days of the Red River Gorge with Porter Jarrard; his European adventures - from Chamonix alpine climbing to crags in communist-era Czechoslovakia to sharing pints with the who’s who of 1980s British climbing; and his transition from dedicated trad climber to developing some of the first sport routes in the midwest.  Plus, get Dave’s recommendation for a great international climbing trip!  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.  Disclaimer:  The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Andy Salo is a longtime climber with roots in Niagara Glen, The Gunks, Rumney and most recently, Rifle. We’ll reminisce about bouldering at The Glen, and then dive into a wide ranging conversation about climbing with small children, how mentors and partners affect your climbing journey, fostering an inclusive climbing culture that makes space for people of all skill levels, and the role that younger and older climbers have within the climbing community.  Plus, we’ll tackle the great debate about climbing grades: Should they be changed or updated? And if so - when, how and why?  Check out Andy in Instagram at @andywsalo Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.

Jim Lawyer joins me today to answer your listener questions!  Jim will tell us about his recovery journey from major back surgery, his experiences at Serra Do Cipó in Brazil, how he balances rock climbing and photography at the crag, and what makes for his favorite kind of climbing day.  Plus, we’ll debate the ethics of ‘Belationships’ and the criteria a person has to meet to be considered a climber of a certain grade.  Check out Jim’s first episode on the podcast here.  Get your copy of Jim’s Adorondacks guide book, Adorondack Rock Follow Jim on Instagram at @jimlawyer  Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower.