Advertise on podcast: Lonely Wrist: All Things Watches & Horology

Swiss watchmaking didn’t “naturally” become the gold standard. It got engineered. We sit down with journalist and author Gabe Oppenheim (Borrowed Time) to follow the paper trail behind the Swiss watch industry’s rise and the American collapse most collectors barely hear about. Once you see the mechanics of power behind the marketing, the words on the dial start to mean something different. We start with the forgotten high point of American watchmaking, when Waltham and Elgin showcase industrial precision that shocks Switzerland at the 1876 Philadelphia Exposition. Then Gabe walks us into the Swiss National Archives, where government involvement shows up again and again in brand-level problems, export strategy, counterfeiting pressure, and even geopolitical moments like Olympic timing. The story is less “heritage” and more industrial policy, trade leverage, and coordination across an entire ecosystem. From there, we unpack how parts dependence becomes a trap for U.S. companies, why tariffs arrive too late to matter, and what gets permanently lost when factory knowledge and quality control vanish within a generation. We also dig into what “Swiss Made” actually means as a legal definition, why it changed, and how modern supply chains complicate authenticity. Finally, we connect the history to today’s reality of high precision clone movements from China, including Dandong, Hong Kong counterfeiting, Shenzhen’s tech rise, and intentional knowledge transfer. If you care about horology, watch movements, and the real forces shaping the watches you buy, this conversation will sharpen your eye. Subscribe for more, share this with a watch friend, and leave a review with the biggest assumption this episode challenged for you. Get your Copy Here: https://link.amazon/B02vHAvh4 Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A mechanical watch that reads like a screen sounds like a contradiction until you hear how Ressence pulls it off. I’m joined by Benoît Mintiens, the founder and CEO of Ressence, a brand famous for doing the things most watch companies won’t touch: no hands, no crown, rotating disc displays, and oil-filled dials that seem to float on the crystal. Benoît explains how an industrial design background (trains, aircraft cabins, medical devices) reshaped his view of watchmaking. We talk about the “mechanical screen” philosophy, why flat 2D information is easier for the human eye, and how the ROCS module keeps familiar time-reading patterns while rebuilding the mechanics underneath. Then we get technical on the Type 3: splitting the watch into air and oil sections, using magnetic transmission to avoid leaks, and why an oil temperature gauge and bellows system are essential engineering, not decoration. We also go behind the scenes on what it takes to stay independent: building a high-complexity Belgian watch brand without Swiss infrastructure, fighting for supplier capacity against mega-groups, protecting long-term service and resale value, and why cash flow can be the biggest design constraint of all. If you love independent watchmaking, modern horology, and product design thinking applied to timekeeping, this one goes deep. If you enjoyed the conversation, subscribe, share it with a fellow watch nerd, and leave a review so more people can find the show. What’s the most user-friendly watch you’ve ever worn? Checkout Ressence online: https://ressencewatches.com/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

Your watch looks incredible in hand, so why does it fall flat on camera? That gap is where luxury watch photographer and videographer Nolan Shi lives. Nolan is based in New York and has quietly become the person behind the kind of watch imagery you’ve probably double tapped without knowing who shot it. We talk about how he went from acting and commercial production to filming vintage watches, then quickly leveling up to some of the most expensive, unforgiving pieces you can put under lights. We get nerdy and practical about luxury watch videography: why dust is a full-time enemy when you’re working with thousands of frames, how reflections behave on polished cases and domed crystals, and what actually helps (big diffusion, circular polarizers, even cross-polarization). Nolan also shares the small decisions that make a watch feel alive, like letting a chronograph run, embracing controlled shadows, and keeping the crystal looking real instead of “perfect.” Then we zoom out to the watch content marketing side. Clients often bring AI or 3D render references that create impossible expectations, and Nolan explains how he protects his style, prices his time, and turns down briefs that don’t fit a brand’s identity. We also talk gear without the hype: why 4K is enough, what lenses he actually relies on, the motion tools he can’t live without, and whether a robot arm is worth it. Plus, he hints at what’s next: a microbrand and a beginner-friendly masterclass for creators. Subscribe for more insider conversations, share this with a friend who shoots watches, and leave a review if you want more deep dives like this. What’s the hardest part of filming a watch for you: dust, reflections, or getting smooth motion? Follow Nolan here: https://www.instagram.com/nolanshi.himself/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

Luxury watch talk gets weird fast: more hype, more ego, higher prices, and somehow less clarity. We wanted the opposite, so we sat down with VJ, CEO of Oris Americas, to hear what it actually feels like to lead one of the last truly independent Swiss watch brands while still chasing real growth in the United States. His story starts far from the usual “born a collector” path, moving from accounting to the watch world, then market research, and eventually into running Oris across the Americas. That mix of numbers and real-world experience shapes the way he leads: data helps, but relationships and trust decide everything.  We dig into what independence unlocks, from the freedom to think long term to the “luxury of common sense” in everyday decisions. VJ explains why Oris can build everything from playful collaborations to serious mechanical tool watches without asking permission from a parent group. We also get the backstory behind Oris staying mechanical only, and why that commitment is more than a slogan. If you care about Swiss mechanical watches, brand identity, and product strategy that doesn’t feel copy-pasted, you’ll hear a lot to chew on.  Then we go deeper on what collectors actually feel: community and value. VJ talks about Oris Social Club energy, the Wandering Watch project, and why listening matters more than buzzwords. We also unpack responsible pricing, why Oris avoids celebrity ambassador costs, and how initiatives like Change for Better and the Aquis Upcycle fit into a conservation-first approach with real partners. If this conversation helps you see the watch industry more clearly, subscribe, share it with a friend, and leave a review. What’s the one thing a watch brand could do to earn your trust? Checkout Oris Http://oris.ch Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A global tire company nearly ends a watch brand before it even begins, and somehow that becomes the origin story. I’m joined by Brent Fedrizzi, founder of Serket Watch Company, to talk about what it actually looks like to build an independent watch brand from scratch, stay small on purpose, and still put genuinely compelling watches on wrists. We get into the early days of direct-to-consumer microbrand watches before social media, the first Scorpion-branded run, and the jaw-dropping moment Brent receives legal pressure tied to Pirelli’s “Scorpion” trademark. From there, we unpack the pivot to Serket, the Egyptian mythology connection, and how brand identity can survive a forced reset if the product and the values are real. Then we go behind the curtain on watchmaking realities: supply chain delays, minimum order quantities, the constant trade-offs between “Swiss made” and practical value, and why movement choice matters for long-term serviceability. We talk ETA 2824, Sellita SW200, and everyday workhorses like the NH35, plus what after-sales support looks like when the “company” is one person who still gets excited to ship watches from the post office. If you care about independent watch brands, microbrand pricing, design process, and building trust without hype, you’ll get a lot out of this one. Subscribe for more, share it with a watch friend, and leave a review telling us your favorite under-the-radar brand. Checkout Serket Watch Company: https://serketwatch.com/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

Rolex waitlists, microbrand value, and what “great design” actually looks like when you live with a watch every day. That’s where this conversation goes with Scott Lancaster, the founder of Emerton Scott, an independent brand that started years ago, detoured through branding and marketing work, and came roaring back with a clear mission: build watches that punch above their weight and celebrate the human spirit behind the grind. We get practical about the stuff enthusiasts care about but brands rarely explain well: why seeing a watch in person beats spec sheets, how events like Wind Up can make or break a launch, and what changes a watch from “nice online” to “invisible on wrist” in the best way. Scott breaks down the unglamorous work too, from years of prototyping to supplier drama that forced him to fly out and handle packaging and shipping himself. We also talk details that quietly separate a serious everyday watch from a shiny toy, like finishing choices that age well and bracelet engineering that makes comfort the default. Then we zoom out into the business side: the marketing funnel, why organic content builds trust, how paid ads can inflate prices, and why Kickstarter fees can wreck already-thin margins for microbrands. Finally, we dig into the Rolex ecosystem, how scarcity and AD behavior shape customer experience, and why more enthusiasts are saying “no thanks” even when they can afford the watch. If you’re into independent watch brands, watch design, microbrand marketing, and the real economics behind “value,” you’ll want to hear this one. Subscribe, share it with a watch friend, and leave a review if the conversation hits home. What brand has earned your trust lately, and why? Checkout Emerton Scott and Scott's Social Media: https://emertonscott.com/ https://www.instagram.com/thescottlancaster/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

He fell in love with Ikepod in 1990s Paris. Years later, he didn’t just buy a watch, he bought the brand. Christian-Louis Col joins us to tell the unfiltered story of reviving Ikepod after bankruptcy: what you actually get when you acquire a “dead” Swiss watch brand, what’s missing when there are no archives, and why rebuilding trust means more than a new logo and a press release.  We get into the real mechanics behind the comeback, from service challenges and sourcing parts to the controversial decision to bring Ikepod back with accessible quartz watches that still respect the original design language. Christian-Louis explains how he thinks about Ikepod as a design brand, why the integrated strap and ergonomic UFO case shape are non-negotiable, and how he works with designers without turning icons into copies. If you care about independent watchmaking, concept watches, and what makes collectors obsess, this conversation is packed with practical insight.  Then we pivot to his second rescue mission: Klokers. We talk about buying the brand out of liquidation, why the rotating disk display and clip system are such compelling IP, and what it takes to re-engineer a design watch so it can survive real life. We close on legacy, pressure, and what “winning” looks like over the next 5 to 10 years when your goal is to save ideas worth keeping.  If you enjoyed this, subscribe, share it with a watch friend, and leave a review so more people can find the show. Check out Ikepod and Klokers: https://ikepod.com/en/ https://www.klokers.com/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A watch can be a flex, a tool, or a tiny machine that marks time, but that’s not why it stays with us. Perry Dash joins me to get under the surface of modern watch culture and enthusiast life, where a piece of steel can turn into a memory, a personal ritual, and a signal of who you are. We talk about the path that starts with aesthetics and quickly becomes storytelling: who made the thing, what it meant in its era, and why that meaning still lands today. We also challenge the lazy definition of luxury as “high price.” Perry lays out a more useful frame: luxury as elevation, backed by culture, craft, and tradition. That takes us from vintage watches and the romance of heritage to how products become cultural icons. Think Air Jordan 1s as ephemera, not sneakers, and the way horology, design, and history can multiply an object’s usefulness into something bigger than function. Then we get into the modern problem: algorithms, hype culture, fast trends, and the pressure to want what everyone else wants. Perry shares how he protects his taste by experimenting, learning what actually resonates, and remembering you don’t have to own everything to love it. We also talk about what brands still miss: community, hospitality, and the stewardship that makes newcomers feel like they belong. If you care about watch collecting, vintage watches, craftsmanship, niche media, and building real community around shared passions, hit play. Subscribe, share this with a friend who’s deep in the hobby, and leave a review with the one object that holds the most meaning for you. Checkout Perri on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/perridash Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A great watch doesn’t just tell time, it tells on you. The choices you make, the memories you keep, and the people you want close. I sit down with Dreis, co-founder of  Arsène Lippens, to talk about how an independent Swiss watch brand can feel like family, not just a product drop. Our conversation starts with a chance meeting at Chronopolis during Watches and Wonders and quickly turns into the deeper stuff: belonging, heritage, and why some pieces connect emotionally while others never do.  We trace the brand’s origin back to Dreis’s grandfather’s collection and the tradition of engraving watches with friends’ names. From there, we get practical about modern watch collecting and neo vintage watch design: why Arsen Leppens avoids chasing hype, how proportions like lug to lug length and a double step bezel change wearability, and why they chose a pulsimeter scale over the usual tachymeter on a chronograph. We also talk entry luxury pricing, movement choices like La Joux Perret, and the real startup hurdles most founders never post about.  Then we go deep on the textile dial story: how it’s made durable with resin backing, tooling, UV protection and humidity testing, plus what “textile patina” could mean over time. Dreis also teases what’s next, including new textile directions, personalization and upcoming surprises. If you care about independent watchmaking, Swiss microbrands, and watches built to last with meaning, you’ll want this one. Subscribe, share it with a watch friend, and leave a review so more collectors can find the show. Show Arsène Lippens some love: https://www.arsenelippens.com/ https://www.instagram.com/arsenelippens/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A watch can be steel and sapphire, sure, but it can also be a receipt for a life moment. Sitting down with Leon, better known as WristtimePapi, turns into a wide-ranging story about how watch collecting really works when you strip away the flex. We talk Wind Up Watch Fair overwhelm, why it’s hard to buy anything when everything is “good,” and how the pieces that stick aren’t always the ones with the biggest price tag, they’re the ones tied to real people.  Leon shares his path from growing up around cheap digital watches to buying a Breitling Navitimer during a deployment, then losing it in combat, and still coming home with the story. From there we get into the practical side of building a collection: setting a guilt-free budget, trading up instead of hoarding, and consolidating into fewer watches with more meaning. If you’ve ever searched for Tudor Black Bay 58, Cartier Tank, Glashütte Original, microbrands, or independent watchmakers, you’ll hear how those choices look when they’re driven by values, not hype.  We also go deeper than watches. Leon opens up about PTSD and how being around watch people makes him feel safe enough to drop his guard, and we dig into the best and worst parts of watch community culture, including transactional relationships and creator pressure around follower counts. If you care about watches as a hobby, a community, and a way to meet people you’d never share a table with otherwise, this one will land.  Subscribe for more conversations like this, share the episode with a friend who loves watches, and leave a review if you want us to keep bringing in guests who tell the truth. Go follow Leon: https://www.instagram.com/wristtimepapi/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A watch that can be read instantly at 3 a.m. is either a gimmick or a quiet form of freedom. Barry Cohen has spent decades proving it can be the second one, first as the co-founder of Luminox and now as the force behind ProTek and the vintage-leaning Santo line. We talk about how self-powered illumination went from military-only utility to a consumer expectation, and what that shift reveals about product design, branding, and real-world performance. Barry walks us through the tritium story with unusual detail, including how GTLS tritium tubes are drawn from glass, coated with phosphor, filled under vacuum, and laser-sealed to glow for years without “charging.” We also get into the practical stuff collectors care about: why green tritium reads brightest, when blue starts to make sense, and why a single color choice can change how fast your eyes orient in the dark. From there we pivot into ProTek’s “no excuses, no compromises” build philosophy, how the USMC partnership came together, and why ProTek is expanding from pure tactical watches into general sporting designs with new sizes, carbon composite cases, and bolder straps. Barry also shares the less-glamorous side of the watch industry: crowded competition, slow brand growth, and why Kickstarter can be a smart awareness engine even when you are not raising funds. If you care about tritium watches, tactical watches, field watches, and what true quality looks like at an attainable price, this conversation delivers. Subscribe for more watch-industry conversations, share this with a friend who loves lume, and leave a review with the watch you daily drive. Checkout Protek and Szanto: https://protekwatch.com/ https://szantotime.com/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A watch can be “tough” on paper and still fail the moment it needs a quick repair, a secure crown, or a bezel you can actually grip with gloves. That’s why my conversation with Theodore from Micro Milspec goes deeper than specs and into the real decisions behind building a modern military tool watch.  We talk about how Micro Milspec started in Oslo with founders Henrik and Martin, how the Milgraph became their benchmark, and why their Field Testing Unit is central to the brand. You’ll hear how operator feedback changes everything from case ergonomics to crown safety cues, why a left-side crown can reduce wrist injury, and why chronograph and GMT functions keep showing up when missions demand synchronization and home-time awareness. If you’re into rugged watches, custom watches, Swiss made tool watches, or military chronograph GMT designs, this is the behind-the-scenes process most brands never explain.  We also get into the unsexy but critical side: servicing and logistics. Theo breaks down how they aim for faster repair turnaround than the big brands, why “Swiss made” still matters for perception in key markets, and what’s coming next with COSC certification plans, experimental concepts through a Micro Milspec Lab, and a push into new materials like forged carbon.  If you enjoyed the conversation, subscribe for more long-form watch industry interviews, share it with a friend who loves tool watches, and leave a review so more collectors can find the show. Check out MicroMilSpec: https://www.micromilspec.com/ https://www.instagram.com/micromilspec/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A minute repeater that sells out before anyone sees the movement should make every watch nerd stop scrolling. From our first studio recording in Las Vegas, we sit down with Belal Shaher, the founder of Grandeur, to hear how an independent watch brand pulls off bold complications, alternative materials, and factory-direct pricing without losing the plot on quality. We get into Belal’s path from collector to manufacturer, including the early Apple Watch case hustle that helped fund years of mechanical learning. Then we dig into the watches that put Grandeur on the map for collectors: the Strange Hours in-house movement, the Lumillion concept, and why Belal refuses to lock the brand into a single “DNA” that repeats forever. If you care about independent watchmaking, in-house movements, jumping hour style displays, tourbillon engineering, and what real experimentation looks like, there’s a lot here to chew on. The conversation goes deep on the stuff enthusiasts argue about in forums: how pricing changes when you own the factory, why tantalum and meteorite are so punishing to machine, and how glow ceramic can take months and millions to develop. We also talk about the five-minute repeater project, the Miami factory plan, and the long-term goal of truly USA-made mechanical watches down to parts most brands still have to import. We close with community and trust: how Grandeur uses direct customer feedback, a WhatsApp group, and a VIP circle to shape final designs, and why Belal would rather earn word-of-mouth than pay for hype. If you like what you hear, subscribe, share this with a fellow collector, and leave a review. What’s the most “impossible” complication you want to see made affordable next? Show Grandeur and Belal all the love: https://grandeur-usa.com/ https://www.instagram.com/grandeur/ And the Founder himself: https://www.instagram.com/belal/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

A designer’s origin story can smell like acetone, sound like ticking, and feel like a country waking up to its own potential. That’s where we go with Zviad Tsikolia—a friend, an industrial designer, and the creative force turning Georgian identity into watches, jewelry, eyewear and more. He walks us from a Soviet-era workshop stacked with model planes to a modern boutique in Tbilisi, explaining why design isn’t “pretty things,” but a hard marriage of function, engineering, safety and logistics. Then he adds the missing ingredient: emotion. A wristwatch, he says, must carry feeling first or it’s just hardware. We dig into the aviation roots behind specific Tsikolia pieces—how cockpit altimetry inspired a tilted subdial that Swiss assemblers tried to “correct,” and why references must be lived-in, not pasted on. The brand’s arc stretches from a Red Dot–winning concept to building a design house that celebrates Georgia’s culture: quivery-inspired jewelry honoring ancient wine craft, award-winning eyewear, and a fragrance with surprising staying power. Recognition found its way to unusual wrists too: a CIA officer, Pentagon corridors, and UFC champion Merab Dvalishvili, who wears a custom Seven built to his specs and spirit. These aren’t placements; they’re relationships that turn objects into stories. We also face the grind behind the glow. Georgia’s limited supply base makes every tool, part and lead time a test. That scarcity shapes a discipline: treat each decision like a precious frame of film, lead with quality, accept slimmer margins and aim for impact that lasts a decade on the wrist. Zviad shares the long game—a first Georgian movement is in motion, with parts manufacturing and caliber modifications building toward independence. And yes, there’s a secret non-watch project slated for next year, a fresh chapter in a design house that refuses to stand still. If you love watches with meaning, craft with backbone, and design that carries a country’s story, you’ll feel at home here. Subscribe, share with a friend who loves thoughtful design, and leave a review to help more curious listeners find us. Check out Tsikolia: https://www.instagram.com/tsikoliawatches/ https://tsikolia.com/home/en/usd Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here

The watch world loves a good story. We love a good material even more. James “Black Badger” Thompson drops by to unpack how real experimentation beats borrowed heritage, and why joy—yes, actual fun—belongs on the wrist. From a tongue-in-cheek “Saturday morning hero” collab to blasting an AI theme song at Geneva, he shows how play fuels rigor when you’re willing to push past the safe zone. James walks us through the gritty side of independent watchmaking: pulverizing slate to recast stronger stone dials, isolating pigment from blue mussel shells to create the lavender Havender, and learning the hard way when magnesium meets salt and when Inconel eats tooling for breakfast. He argues for storytelling with receipts—provenance that adds value instead of stealing clout—and explains why some artifacts, like a McLaren P1 test engine or wood from HMS Victory, should be admired, not machined. We get personal about boundaries and burnout, too. Hyper-access almost turned the bench into a help desk; stepping back from rings helped him show up as a parent and a maker. Along the way, we explore Arcanaut’s garage-band ethos, lume as a legitimate canvas, the myth of “wearability” versus delight, and the reality that originality is expensive, uncomfortable, and worth it. If you’re a collector tired of sunset embargoes and press-trip gloss, or a creative searching for permission to get weird, this conversation offers both a compass and a dare. Hit play, then tell us: what material would you turn into meaning if no one could say no? If this resonated, follow the show, share it with a friend, and leave a review so more curious makers can find us. Show James some love here: https://www.instagram.com/blackbadger/ https://www.blackbadger.se/ https://arcanaut.watch/ Send us Fan Mail Support the show Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2237102/support Visit our Blog: https://lonelywrist.com Watch our Youtube: http://youtube.lonelywrist.com 100% Viewer Funded: Donate Here