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CIA - Climbing Intelligence Agency

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5
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This podcast has
54 episodes
Language
English
Date created
2025/03/12
Latest episode
2026/10/22
Average duration
85 min.
Release period
44 days

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CIA - Interrogation of Adam Ondra
2026/10/22
Make sure you're sitting comfortable, because this interrogation isn't short. Something to drink perhaps?We discuss a lot of things. Diving deep into the subtleties of Exodia of course, about where Adam is today, what motivates him, where he can push the limits even further...Grades, training, how climbing has changed and why? Where are we heading?World Championships in Brno, his home town - is it ten years too late?What about Los Angeles 2028?This and much more.We hope you enjoy it, because we certainly did! By and with Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, the Climbing Intelligence Agency 0:00 Personal life and updates1:20 Preparing for Exodia3:21 Pressure and performance6:13 Decoding the boulder14:48 The journey to success20:44 Mental game and focus23:28 Beta and movement details30:18 Training philosophy33:25 Projecting tactics41:08 Reflecting on grades and ethics46:54 Silence and other elite routes53:52 Future goals and bouldering58:50 New projects in Arco1:03:58 The limits of human ability1:14:01 Skills and styles1:24:57 Competition future1:30:24 The new generation1:36:13 Ethics of flashing1:40:51 Q&A and personal quirks1:46:40 The grading scale debate1:53:40 Final reflections
CIA - Interrogation of Filip Schenk
2026/10/19
Filip Schenk is a climber from Santa Cristina Gherdëina in the Italian Dolomites. Currently he is focusing mostly on competition climbing, where the big goal is of course LA 28, but this hasn't stopped him from shocking the World by flashing two 9a:s back to back. We talk about his background, outdoor - and competition goals, training and much more. By and with Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, the Climbing Intelligence Agency.
CIA - Interrogation of Sarina Ghaffari
2026/10/09
We talk to the extremely talented Iranian climber Sarina Ghaffari. Sarina won double Gold medals at the Asian Youth Games in 2024 and is now trying to get to the top among the seniors. Recently, she moved to Grenoble, France, to study and train. We talk about her background, how it all started, competitions, training, studies and more. By and with Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, The Climbing Intelligence Agency
CIA - Interrogation of Annie Sanders
2026/09/25
Annie Sanders, from Dallas, TX, is a competition climber from the USA. In 2025 she became the first US woman to win Gold in both Lead and Boulder in the same season, and in 2026, she took it one step further by taking double Golds at the Prague World Climbing Series. In total she has won 8 World Cup/Climbing Series competitions. Four in Lead and four in Boulder. We talk about training, World Climbing Series, PCL, Olympics and more. By and with Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, The Climbing Intelligence Agency
CIA - Interrogation of Luka Fonda
2026/09/17
Luka Fonda is deeply involved in Slovenian and international Sport climbing and Bouldering. He is a national coach and owner of the Plus Climbing gym in Koper, Slovenia, where he recently hosted his 5th, and Slovenia's 30th, World Cup/Climbing Series. We talk about how he ended up here and what it takes to organize a World Climbing Series event. By and with Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, the Climbing Intelligence Agency
CIA - Interrogation of James Pearson II
2026/09/10
The interrogation continues. To be continued.
CIA - Interrogation of James Pearson, Part I
2026/08/31
We had a plan. Topics, questions etc. We didn't get very far, so we need at least one more session.
CIA - PCL Debrief, with Roman Krajnik
2026/03/12
We sat down with Roman Krajnik, coach of Janja Garnbret, to talk about The Pro Climbing League. What did we expect?What did we experience?Do we have any suggestions for making it even better?From now on, the plan is to talk with Roman more regularly, especially during the competition season, but also if something extraordinary happens.'By and with Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, the CIA
CIA - Interrogation of Charlie Boscoe
2026/01/26
An interrogation of the co-founder of the Pro Climbing League. Obviously a lot about PCL and the story behind it, but also Charlie's story. How did he end up here? By and with: Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, The CIA
CIA - Interrogation of Yannick Flohé
2026/01/16
Yannick probably doesn't need an introduction, even though he himself still doesn't think he's a name in climbing. When it comes to finger strength, very few, if anyone, can match him, and consequently, in the summer of 2025, he became the first to flash an 8C boulder problem. He is also an extremely accomplished lead climber and recently he repeated Excalibur, 9b+, which is half a grade harder than his previous best Ratstaman vibration, 9b/+. On the competition scene, he has won one boulder WC and has a World Championship title in combined (2021) and a Bronze i Boulder (2019). In Lead he has reached the podium once and the final many times. Wow, that's too long for "no introduction needed" So, how did it go in Maltatal? Bügeleisen sit, ✅️ "Easy" By and with: Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, The Climbing Intelligence Agency
CIA - Interrogation of Alex Megos
2025/11/06
A long and open hearted talk with Alex Megos about the past, present and future, projecting, competitions, goals, ethics and much more. 1,5h of quality entertainment.By and with Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, The CIA
CIA - Interrogation of Rosa Rekar
2025/11/04
Rosa Rekar is quickly racing through the ranks! 20 years young, she has already been in five World Cup finals and at the World Championship in Seoul she made it a Slovenian double by grabbing the Silver medal. But how did it start and what plans does she have for the future?
CIA - Interrogation of Jacopo Larcher
2025/05/07
Jacopo Larcher is one of the most accomplished allround climbers in the World. Trad: 9a (at least) and E11 Sport: 9a+ Boulder: 8B+ Multi pitch: 8b+ (many) Alpine bigwall: 8a+ Plus he is an IFSC routsetter We talk about many things, like for example: How to train your pinkie in the correct way, his attempts on Bon Voyage, Tribe and the inevitable question of grading or not, Freerider and about sometimes living in Babsi's shadow, the benefits of minor injuries, and of course a lot more. We hope you enjoy it as much as we did! By and with: Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, The CIA
CIA - Interrogation of Nicolai Užnik
2025/03/04
Of course we talk a lot about Nicolai's recent First ascent of Mount Doom, 9A, in the Maltatal. About the problem, the process, the grade, the significance and so on. Also about other 9A:s, the World Cup, goals, training and more.By and with: Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, The CIA
CIA - Interrogation of Mélissa Le Nevé
2025/02/21
About her youth, World Cup career, Action Directe, Dreamtime, projecting, paragliding, life, training and more...like bench.By and with: Björn Pohl & Vladek Zumr, The CIA

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