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In this episode of The Tramping Life we head to Rakiura / Stewart Island for one of New Zealand’s most remote and demanding coastal tramps, the North West Circuit. This 125 km circuit follows the rugged northern coastline of the island through Rakiura National Park, passing windswept beaches, granite headlands, wetlands, and dense native bush. It typically takes 9–11 days to complete and links a chain of backcountry huts spaced roughly a day’s walk apart. I walked a shortened 100 km version of the circuit over seven days in 2021, travelling clockwise from Freshwater Hut back to the island’s main settlement at Oban. The trip began with a last-minute change of plans after weather cancelled my flight to Mason Bay. The Northwest Circuit is a true wilderness tramp, with long empty beaches, muddy bush tracks, river crossings, and dramatic coastal scenery. In this episode I share my experience on the track, including wildlife encounters, memorable huts, and some tough days on the trail, along with practical advice for anyone considering taking on this iconic Stewart Island adventure.

Peter Laurenson is the author of Occasional Climber, Khumbu: Gateway to Mount Everest, and most recently Aotearoa Light, books that combine thoughtful writing with striking photography from New Zealand and the Himalaya. Peter reflects on growing up in New Plymouth, discovering the mountains later in life, and how his first journey to the Khumbu region of Nepal in the late 1980s shaped his relationship with tramping, climbing, and photography. We talk about returning to the New Zealand backcountry, joining the Alpine Club, and memorable trips across the country — from volcanic plateaus to long traverses on the tops. The conversation also explores Peter’s views on tourism growth, environmental change, and how places like the Himalaya have transformed over decades of visitation. Peter shares insights into photographing while tramping, lightweight camera systems, panoramic image stitching, and the role of post-processing in telling a deeper story. We also discuss his work as editor of FMC’s Backcountry magazine, the challenges facing print publications, and how his writing has evolved to engage with climate change and responsibility. We finish with reflections on perspective, ageing, and what really matters when it comes to a tramping bucket list." https://www.occasionalclimber.co.nz/ https://www.unitybooks.co.nz/products/aotearoa-light

In this episode of The Tramping Life we explore two very different hikes in and around Auckland: the coastal Waikōwhai Walkway and the hilltop Mount William Walkway. Both offer rewarding walking close to the city, with great views and a surprising sense of escape not far from the urban area. The Waikōwhai Walkway follows part of the northern shoreline of the Manukau Harbour, running roughly 10 km between Hillsborough Bay and Lynfield Cove. The route combines foreshore walking, native bush tracks, and several shorter loop options, with plenty of birdlife and coastal scenery along the way. Further south, the Mount William Walkway climbs through bush and farmland on the edge of the Bombay Hills to the 373-metre summit of Mount William. From the top there are wide views across both the Auckland and Waikato regions. In this episode I share my experience walking these tracks while living in Auckland, the highlights along each route, and some practical advice for anyone looking for a good training hike close to the city.

Derrick Field has spent a lifetime in the hills — first as a deer culler in the 1960s, then as a ranger, hut builder, track cutter, mountain runner, and now as Chair of the Greater Wellington Backcountry Network. In this wide-ranging conversation, Derek reflects on the hard graft of culling in the Tararuas, cutting new tracks in Taranaki and the Wairarapa, building huts that are still standing today, and the volunteer mahi that keeps the backcountry alive. From sleeping in ratty huts to running the Southern Crossing in a day, Derek shares stories that capture the grit, humour, and passion behind decades of work in New Zealand’s hills. https://gwbn.org.nz/home/

Today we head to Canterbury to explore the Mount Somers Track in Hakatere Conservation Park. Less than two hours’ drive from Christchurch, this popular tramp circles the slopes of Mount Somers, linking the Sharplin Falls Car Park and Woolshed Creek Car Park trailheads. The track combines striking volcanic rock formations, historic mining remnants, and wide views across the Canterbury foothills and plains. I walked the circuit over a hot early-summer weekend about a decade ago. The trip included a climb to the 1,686-metre summit of Mount Somers, quiet trails despite the good weather, and some memorable highlights including the Water Caves, the dramatic Pinnacles rock formations, and the spectacular setting of Woolshed Creek Hut. The Mount Somers Track offers a varied two-day tramp through beech forest, tussock slopes, and open high country, with a mix of natural scenery and local history. In this episode I share an overview of the route, my experience on the track, the key highlights along the way, and some practical advice for anyone planning to walk it.

Hazel Phillips is a tramper and author, whose books explore the landscapes, histories, and human stories behind New Zealand’s tracks and huts.   Hazel reflects on early tramping trauma, the 'stupid' Harper Pass tramp, and experiences that don’t always go to plan — from river mishaps to self-arresting on snow.   We discuss Hazel’s writing, including her books Solo and Fire & Ice, her fascination with the hidden histories of huts, tracks and tragedies, and the research process behind uncovering those stories. Hazel shares insights into balancing writing, work, and tramping, her views on managing high-use tracks like the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, and what’s next with her upcoming book Great Hearts, focusing on early women climbers in the Aoraki / Mount Cook region.   It’s a wide-ranging conversation about resilience, risk, and storytelling. https://www.masseypress.ac.nz/authors/hazel-phillips https://wilderlife.nz/author/hazel-phillips/

Today we head into Mount Aspiring National Park for one of the South Island’s classic backcountry tramps, the Gillespie Pass Circuit. This spectacular 58 km circuit links the Young and Wilkin valleys, crossing the 1,500 m Gillespie Pass and travelling through beech forest, wide river valleys, and high alpine terrain. Along the way sits one of the best side trips in the region: the climb to Crucible Lake, a glacier-fed alpine lake tucked beneath Mount Alba. I walked the circuit in December about a decade ago, managing much of it in two long days thanks to a combination of jet boat access up the Makarora River and a helicopter ride out from Siberia Hut. Along the way there were wet valley walks, crowded huts, spectacular views from Gillespie Pass, and a memorable evening hike up to Crucible Lake just before sunset. The Gillespie Pass Circuit combines classic West Coast–style valley travel with dramatic alpine scenery, making it one of the most rewarding multi-day tramps in the region. In this episode I share an overview of the route, my experience on the track, highlights such as Crucible Lake, and some practical advice for anyone planning to walk the circuit.

Emeritus Professor of Ecology David Norton has spent a lifetime exploring Aotearoa’s backcountry — from teenage climbs in Arthur’s Pass to fieldwork deep in Westland’s forests. In this episode, he reflects on how those early tramping adventures shaped a career in ecology, restoration, and helping farmers understand the biodiversity on their land.   We talk about memorable trips in South Westland, riflemen and kaka, the hidden damage deer cause to our forests, and how trampers can help restore resilience to the landscapes they love. David also shares insights from the Think Like a Forest film and explains why native forests — not pine plantations — hold the key to a sustainable future for Aotearoa. https://www.instagram.com/davidnortonnz/

In this episode of we head to the slopes of Mount Taranaki to visit one of the most spectacular and highest public huts in the North Island, Syme Hut. Sitting at around 1,940 m on an old volcanic cone high on the mountain’s southern flank, the hut offers remarkable views across much of the North Island on a clear day. The route begins at Dawson Falls Visitor Centre and climbs steadily through forest and subalpine vegetation before emerging onto steep volcanic slopes of loose scoria and rock. The final section is an exposed climb towards Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut itself, gaining roughly 1,000 metres of elevation over about 9 kilometres. I visited Syme Hut while attempting a section of the old around-the-mountain circuit in 2021. What followed was a long and windy climb, some difficult decisions about whether to continue, and eventually one of the most memorable hut stays I’ve ever had, with spectacular sunset and sunrise views from high on the mountain. In this episode I share an overview of the route, the history of the hut, my experience climbing to it, and some practical advice for anyone thinking of making the trip.

Chris Maclean is a historian, writer, and unapologetic solo tramper who has spent a lifetime in the hills.   In this episode, Chris shares stories of swimming rivers with a pack on his back, being rescued from the Ruahines after his heart gave out, and the joy (and occasional awkwardness) of tramping in the nude.   We also trace his journey from publishing Tararua: The Story of a Mountain Range to co-authoring Tramping: A New Zealand History, his reflections on working with Sean Barnett and Robbie Burton, and his thoughts on how the digital age changed the world of New Zealand outdoor publishing.   A rich, funny, and deeply human conversation about the land, its stories, and what it means to truly be immersed in the New Zealand outdoors. https://www.chrismaclean.co.nz/

In this episode of The Tramping Life we head to the Greenstone–Caples Track, a 61 km circuit through the Greenstone Conservation Area near Glenorchy at the head of Lake Wakatipu. Often overshadowed by the nearby Routeburn Track, the Greenstone–Caples offers an easier multi-day tramp through two very different valleys – the broad, open Greenstone Valley and the narrower, more forested Caples Valley – linked by the 698 m McKellar Saddle. I walked the track solo in winter over four days, initially planning a quiet escape after a period of exhaustion from work. What followed included misty valley walks, empty huts, failed attempts to light hut fires, unexpected company from hunters, and some remarkable dark night skies. The Greenstone–Caples isn’t as dramatic as some of New Zealand’s alpine Great Walks, but it’s a beautiful part of the country and a very accessible multi-day tramp. With three well-spaced huts and relatively gentle terrain, it’s a great introduction to tramping for those looking to build confidence in the backcountry. In this episode I share an overview of the track, highlights from the walk, and some practical advice for anyone thinking about tramping the Greenstone–Caples.

My guest this episode is Kayla Kingdon-Bebb, Chief Executive of WWF New Zealand, and a passionate advocate for biodiversity, climate action, and the role of indigenous communities in conservation.   Originally from Canada, Kayla grew up exploring forests and fjords before moving to Aotearoa more than 15 years ago. We talk about her first tramps in New Zealand, what makes the Heaphy Track so special, her love of the takahe, and how her experiences with grizzly bears reshaped her views on human–wildlife connection.   Kayla also shares insights into WWF’s work on ocean conservation, the challenge of bycatch, and why New Zealand’s hut network is such a national treasure.   It’s a wide-ranging conversation about adventure, purpose, and protecting what makes Aotearoa unique. https://wwf.org.nz/

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I tackle one of the Lakes Region’s most challenging tramps: the Motatapu Track. This 49 km route runs between Glendhu Bay near Wanaka and Macetown near Arrowtown, crossing high tussock country with almost no flat sections. With around 3,000 m of cumulative ascent and descent over three major hills, it’s a hard but rewarding walk offering expansive views of Lake Wanaka, the Arrow River, and the surrounding peaks. The highest point is the 1,270 m Roses Saddle, and the track is largely exposed, with minimal shelter, three 20-bunk huts, and no booking requirements—though it gets busy in summer as part of Te Araroa. I share my experience walking the track in two days, including tussock-covered ridgelines, challenging descents, and the solitude of Highland Creek Hut. Highlights include the spectacular panoramas from Jack Hall’s Saddle, the historic gold rush town of Macetown, and the sheer sense of remoteness that makes the Motatapu Track one of New Zealand’s most physically demanding yet memorable tramps.

Bruce “Chopper” Reay has spent much of his life deep in the bush, from possum hunting and eel fishing in the wilds of the South Island, to his current home at Saxton Hut near Fiordland’s Hollyford Track. In this episode, Bruce shares his stories of living months at a time in the wilderness, eating possum, nearly failing his university degree due to over-tramping, and being rescued multiple times by helicopters after close calls in the mountains. We talk about his love of the bush, his time with the Canterbury University Tramping Club, and the lifestyle he’s carved out away from towns and bureaucracy.

In this episode of The Tramping Life, I explore one of New Zealand’s most iconic coastal walks: the Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds. This 71 km route is typically walked from Ship Cove in the north to Anakiwa in the south, following ridgelines and shorelines with terrain that undulates between sea level and hills up to around 450 m. The track passes through native forest, across headlands, and around numerous coves and bays, offering dramatic views of sunken valleys, rocky coastlines, and the surrounding Marlborough Sounds. Part of Te Araroa, the track crosses private and council land, requiring a Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative pass for sections near Kenepuru Saddle, and features a mix of DOC campsites and private lodges, with the option to transfer bags between overnight stops. I share my experience walking the track in November 2020, from the historic Ship Cove—where Captain Cook anchored—to the towering ridgelines and scenic viewpoints along the peninsula. Along the way, I met fellow walkers and bikers, admired thousand-year-old rimu trees, enjoyed the quiet of DOC campsites, and even spotted playful weka. Highlights include the mix of coastal and inland scenery, historic interpretation at Ship Cove, and the opportunity to relax at campsites with birdsong as your alarm clock.