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What is it really like to trek the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu? David recalls a 17-day adventure through Peru, from Lima and Lake Titicaca to Cusco, the breathtaking Sun Gate and the Amazon rainforest. There are spectacular mountains, altitude struggles, football with the porters, jungle wildlife and one unforgettable toilet disaster.
In this episode of Unravel Travel, Malcolm quizzes David about his first major trekking holiday, an organised trip to Peru in 2001 with Barbara. The centrepiece was the famous four-day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, but the journey also took in some of Peru's most remarkable landscapes and cultural attractions.
Lima, Lake Titicaca and the Floating Islands
David's adventure begins in Lima, where he discovers extraordinary humidity, colonial architecture and a cathedral with vultures circling overhead.
From Lima, the journey continues by train into the Andes towards Lake Titicaca, more than 3,800 metres above sea level.
Here, David visits the remarkable Uros Floating Islands, constructed from reeds, and Taquile Island, where a gentle-looking walk provides an early introduction to hiking at altitude.
The thin air comes as quite a shock. Even getting off the train for a short walk leaves David feeling lightheaded.
Cusco: The Gateway to Machu Picchu
Next comes Cusco, the historic Inca capital and starting point for many Inca Trail adventures.
David remembers it as one of the highlights of the entire journey, with sunny weather, beautiful architecture, atmospheric streets and a wonderfully relaxed feel.
We discuss the city's Spanish colonial heritage, its churches and cafés, and why David would happily have spent much longer exploring.
Cusco also provides an opportunity to acclimatise before tackling the mountains.
The Four-Day Inca Trail: Trekking to Machu Picchu
The main event is the legendary Inca Trail, a four-day trek through spectacular Andean scenery towards Machu Picchu.
David had never previously attempted a major trekking expedition and assumed that playing five-a-side football would provide sufficient fitness.
He was wrong.
The trek involves camping, steep mountain paths and a great deal of climbing at altitude.
Among the experiences we discuss:
Dead Woman's Pass: At approximately 4,200 metres, the highest and most physically demanding point of the classic Inca Trail.The porters: Incredibly fit local workers who carry camping equipment up the mountains, sometimes running past exhausted trekkers wearing little more than basic footwear.Camping on the trail: Shared tents, basic facilities and the pleasures and indignities of mountain life.Football at altitude: David and his fellow travellers challenge the porters to evening football matches, despite having spent the day struggling through the mountains.The toilet incident: A deeply embarrassing misunderstanding about the facilities that David still remembers more than two decades later.The conversation also covers coca leaves, altitude sickness and the importance of preparing properly for a demanding trek.
Machu Picchu: Arriving Through the Sun Gate
After four days of trekking, David finally reaches Inti Punku, the Sun Gate, overlooking Machu Picchu.
The first sight of the ancient Inca city surrounded by mountains proves genuinely emotional.
Having struggled over high passes and spent days camping, arriving on foot makes the experience particularly rewarding.
David recalls the overwhelming satisfaction of completing the trek and the extraordinary view down onto one of the world's most famous archaeological sites.
Afterwards, there's the welcome luxury of a hot shower, beer and a soak in the hot springs at Aguas Calientes.
We also discuss trying traditional Peruvian food, including guinea pig, or cuy.
Exploring the Peruvian Amazon: Caiman, Macaws and Jungle Life
The journey doesn't finish at Machu Picchu.
David and Barbara extend their holiday with several days in the Peruvian Amazon, staying at a rainforest lodge.
It's a dramatic change from the dry mountain air of the Andes.
Highlights include:Travelling by boat into the rainforest.Searching for caiman by torchlight during a night excursion.Jungle walks and the sounds of howler monkeys.Looking for giant river otters, but discovering a spectacular gathering of macaws instead.Meeting rescued macaws at the lodge, including one particularly affectionate bird.After the physical demands of the Inca Trail, the Amazon proves a wonderful way to finish the holiday.
Is Peru Worth Visiting for the Inca Trail Alone?
David's trip combines ancient history, extraordinary landscapes, memorable local encounters and plenty of unexpected experiences.
From Lake Titicaca and the atmospheric streets of Cusco to the emotional arrival at Machu Picchu and the wildlife of the Amazon, Peru delivers far more than a single famous trek.
Join Malcolm and David for first-hand travel experiences, practical observations, embarrassing mishaps and the usual Unravel Travel humour.
Places and experiences mentioned
Lima, Lake Titicaca, Uros Floating Islands, Taquile Island, Cusco, Inca Trail, Dead Woman's Pass, Sun Gate (Inti Punku), Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes, Peruvian Amazon, caiman and macaws.
David's journey took place in 2001. Inca Trail booking arrangements, permits, safety requirements and visitor access have changed since then.
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Theme music: Traveler's Blues by Jerzy Gorecki, via Pixabay (used under licence).
https://pixabay.com/users/jerzyg%C3%B3recki-2233926/