Advertise on podcast: The Hidden Gem

Geologist and gem hunter Brian Cook joins Laurent Cartier to talk about a life spent chasing crystals in Brazil — and about being one of the first people outside the country to see Paraíba tourmaline. From a chrysocolla pebble given to a high-school girlfriend, to emerald pits in the Bahian outback, to a dinner plate of electric blue stones in a remote town in Rio Grande do Norte, Brian tells the story of a discovery that changed the gem world — and explains why, after four decades, the artisanal mining communities behind the stones matter to him as much as the stones themselves.

Jewellery historian and gemmologist Helen Molesworth joins Laurent Cartier at the V&A in London to explore why gems have captivated humanity for thousands of years. From a childhood geode that broke her leg to curating the museum's blockbuster Cartier exhibition, Helen makes the case that no other subject sits at the crossroads of science, history, art and emotion quite like this one.

Fourth-generation coral specialist Enzo Liverino joins Laurent Cartier to talk about precious coral — a material humans have prized for thousands of years, from Mediterranean fishermen to Tibet and the kings of Benin. From learning to read a coral branch as a boy in his father's factory in Torre del Greco, to buying rough material in Japan and Taiwan in his twenties, Enzo shares a lifetime of knowledge — and makes the case that what really matters is the culture and heritage we pass on.

Jewellery historian and Antiques Roadshow specialist Joanna Hardy joins Laurent Cartier at Goldsmiths' Hall in London to talk about a career built on curiosity — from a childhood spent surrounded by her godmother's mineral cabinets, to sorting rough diamonds at De Beers in the 1980s, to writing definitive books on ruby, sapphire and emerald. Joanna reflects on what it took to find her way in a male-dominated trade, why trust and reputation still sit at the heart of the gemstone world, and why — even in an age of AI and synthetic stones — the craft, the human stories, and the unexplained energy of gems still draw us in.

Hussain Alfardan, one of the world's most influential collectors of natural pearls, joins Michael Krzemnicki and Laurent Cartier at GemGenève to share a lifetime spent with pearls. Born into a Qatari family whose business traced back through generations of pearl trading, Mr. Alfardan saw the Gulf's pearl economy collapse with the arrival of cultured pearls and the discovery of oil — and yet kept collecting through the lows. He reflects on rarity, patience, the personal bond he has with each pearl, and why for him a natural pearl will always be something made by nature.

Recorded in the summer of 2024, this episode is a conversation with Professor Dr. Henry Hänni, who served as Director of SSEF from 1990 to 2009 and whose work helped shape modern gemmology. Henry passed away on 8 January 2025, and it is a privilege to share his voice here. Laurent Cartier — a former student of Henry's — speaks with him about an unconventional path into science, the discoveries that pushed gemmology toward scientific rigour, the death threats and difficult truths that came with the work, and a lifelong fascination with the colour and symmetry of stones. This conversation was originally recorded in Swiss German. The English version you hear is a voice-over, with Laurent Cartier reading his own words and Martin Herzog voicing Henry.

Diese Folge ist ein Gespräch mit Professor Dr. Henry Hänni, der von 1990 bis 2009 Direktor des SSEF war und dessen Arbeit die moderne Gemmologie massgeblich geprägt hat. Aufgezeichnet wurde es im Sommer 2024. Henry verstarb am 8. Januar 2025, und es ist ein Privileg, seine Stimme hier teilen zu dürfen. Laurent Cartier — ein ehemaliger Student Henrys — spricht mit ihm über seinen unkonventionellen Weg, über Entdeckungen, und wie die Gemmologie zu einer modernen wissenschaftlichen Disziplin geworden ist, über die Morddrohungen und unbequemen Wahrheiten, die mit dieser Arbeit einhergingen, und über eine lebenslange Faszination für die Farbe und Symmetrie von Steinen.