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In August, Rachel Pearce braved the famed Indian Face on the north side of Wales’ highest peak, completing the first female ascent of this masterpiece of runout traditional climbing. First climbed by Johnny Dawes in 1986, the U.K.’s first E9 (E9 6c or 5.12+ X) has held its reputation as a fearsome benchmark for the past four decades. With sparse protection and continuously thin, off-vertical climbing along its 150-foot length, the storied route has only seen 10 ascents, the latest being Pearce’s. Cutting Edge host Jim Aikman sits down with Pearce to get into her climbing history and love affair with the route—and why she thinks no women had led this "no falls climb" until now. He also talks to Johnny Dawes about the influence of Indian Face on hard, heady British climbing and the shift—beginning in the 1980s—to the “headpoint” style of rehearsing dangerous routes prior to a lead attempt. Also joining Aikman is American Climbing Journal Editor Matt Samet, a sometime headpointer who's dabbled with the style himself in Colorado and has tracked its evolution from E9 up to the current standard of E12 (very serious 5.14+). It’s a style of climbing that’s definitely not for everyone, which might just be what makes it so fascinating. This episode of the Cutting Edge is sponsored by Feathered Friends, makers of exceptionally lightweight, warm, and packable down gear for more than 50 years. Photo of Rachel Pearce by Alex Riley.

The south face of Kichatna Spire in Alaska was one of the great unclimbed walls of North America. Until July. On their second attempt in two years, young American alpinists Eli Spitulnik and Michael Telstad climbed the 1,000-meter face with a blend of difficult aid and tricky mixed, placing no bolts. In a tight weather window, they blazed up and down the face in a little over three days, with only a four-hour bivy and some catnaps along the way, leading to a level of exhaustion that pushed them to the brink of delirium. In this episode, host Jim Aikman interviews Eli and Michael about their adventure, explores the rich, colorful history of the Kichatna Mountains with legendary alpinist Conrad Anker and American Alpine Journal Editor Dougald MacDonald, and shares recorded tales from Al DeMaria and Peter Geiser, two members of the very first climbers to enter the Kichatnas, way back in 1965. This episode of the Cutting Edge is sponsored by Feathered Friends, makers of exceptionally lightweight, warm, and packable down gear for more than 50 years.

On February 11, Erwan Legrand—only 17 at the time, and barefoot!—took down one of the longest-standing open projects in the world: Le Bombé Bleu at Buoux, France. Bolted on the La Plage sector in 1991 by Marc Le Menestrel, the 100-foot route features a notoriously difficult precision dyno on its blue-streaked bulge, followed by ferocious tugging on tiny pockets, all clocking in at a lofty 5.15b. Famously, Le Menestrel had opened the route to the community as long as it was left in its natural state, a vision of what climbing might someday become and a challenge for future generations. Thirty-five years later, Legrand—the son of legendary French climber François Legrand—met that challenge with style. Join host Jim Aikman as he talks with Erwan Legrand about his remarkable barefoot redpoint, as well as U.K. icon Ben Moon—one of the route’s early suitors—and American Climbing Journal Editor Matt Samet, who interviewed Legrand about Le Bombé Bleu for the 2027 ACJ. Photo by Fred Ripert.

Preview the Cutting Edge's eighth season, featuring interviews with climbing legends like Colin Haley, Sasha DiGiulian, Tommy Caldwell, Benjamin Védrines, and many more. Tune in for monthly episodes to hear the stories behind first ascents, first-person accounts of recent expeditions, and climbing history that puts each climb in context.

The east face of the Central Tower in Chile's Torres del Paine is one of the great walls of the world. The first route up the face, climbed in 1973 and 1974 by a South African team, had only been freed twice. In February, Belgian Siebe Vanhee (a veteran of two other free ascents on the Central Tower) and American Tommy Caldwell (a newcomer to Torres del Paine but not to Patagonia) completed the third free ascent in remarkable style. On their third attempt, the two climbers raced up the 1,200-meter 5.12 route in exactly 24 hours—in an area where most big-wall ascents take weeks. Host Jim Aikman interviewed both climbers, as well as American Ben Ditto, who was on the first free ascent of the South African Route back in 2009. It's an episode about risk, the ups and downs of multiple efforts on a serious objective, and a partnership that perfectly balances the strengths of two amazing climbers.

In March 2025, the Bay Area–based climber Katie Lamb snagged the fourth ascent of Yosemite's most difficult boulder problem, The Dark Side, an unrelenting V16 on small crimps and dire slopers on the Thriller Boulder in Camp 4. In so doing, she became the first woman to climb the grade, but there's a catch: Back in summer 2023, Lamb had already done a V16, a problem called Box Therapy in Colorado—it's just that it was later downgraded to V15. In a complex and nuanced discussion on the state of the art in bouldering—and the evolution of the grading scales we use to classify these ascents—host Jim Aikman talks with Lamb about the passion, hard work, and tactics that went into her ticks. And he interviews The Dark Side's first ascensionist Carlo Traversi, a driving force behind modern Yosemite bouldering, as well as American Climbing Journal Editor Matt Samet, who worked with Lamb on her feature in the upcoming journal, "A Walk on the Dark Side."

One of the highlights of last fall's Nepal season was the first ascent of 7,468-meter Jannu East by French climbers Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines, on their second attempt in two years. In this special episode of the Cutting Edge, Ben Védrines shares the full story of his two expeditions to Jannu, the physical and mental preparation, a "warm up" first ascent on 6,800-meter Anidesh Chuli, and the rapid ascent of Jannu East itself. American alpinist Steve House, a leading protagonist of single-push alpine ascents in the early 2000s and a top coach today, gives his perspective on the training and psychological aspects behind the French climbs. American Alpine Journal editor Dougald MacDonald unpacks the history of climbing on Jannu. There's a lot to share, so we're offering a special extended episode....enjoy!

The enormous granite peaks of Mozambique are among Africa's most impressive rock formations, yet fewer than a dozen climbing teams have ever explored them. In 2025, a Spanish and American trio put up a 17-pitch route in Mozambique, and for this episode we spoke with American Dakota Walz about what they encountered, including a seemingly inscrutable bureaucracy and a night in detention before they could even start the climb. Following the successful ascent, they suffered debilitating illness, thanks to ill-advised celebratory ice cream. In between were some glorious days on a unique African mountain, creating a route worth repeating. Host Jim Aikman also chats with Majka Burhardt, a veteran of two expeditions to Mozambique, about navigating the cultural and logistical challenges in a country struggling with a legacy of conflict. And AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald shares insights on southern Africa's extraordinary granite climbing.

Last summer, the Women's Young Alpinist Team of the Swiss Alpine Club journeyed to East Greenland—without ever boarding a plane—and they climbed six long new rock routes, four of them in a fjord never that had never been visited by climbers. Team leader Caro North is our main guest this episode, describing the logistical difficulties of organizing such a complex exploratory trip, especially with a team of expedition novices. Just getting there and back involved trains, ferries, cars, and a voyage by sail. Yet even though she was the most experienced climber in the group, Caro deliberately stepped back from the decision-making, letting the young team members plan and lead their routes—a rewarding tactic for Caro, but also one with some emotional challenges. To round out this episode, host Jim Aikman interviewed American Mike Libecki, who has done more exploratory rock climbing in East Greenland than anyone alive, including all of the early climbs in the second fjord the Swiss team visited. Enjoy!

In November, Sasha DiGiulian free climbed The Direct Line (a.k.a. Platinum Wall), a 39-pitch 5.13d route on El Cap, in a 23-day push, including nine days trapped by a storm high on the route. For this episode, Jim Aikman explores the history and highlights of this relatively new route (first free ascent: 2017), which is becoming known as one of El Cap's best and most sustained free climbs. You'll hear DiGiulian describe the route and her climb, the long and varied trajectory of her climbing career, and the value of first female ascents. You'll also hear from Elliot Faber, co-developer of The Direct Line and Sasha's partner for most of the climb (and his cool explanation of The Direct Line name); Alex Honnold, who also free climbed the route in November, with Tommy Caldwell; and Dougald MacDonald, editor of the AAJ. In the photo: Sasha DiGiulian leading the Platinum pitch (5.13a) on The Direct Line. Photo by Christian Pondella, courtesy of Red Bull.

On September 7, Colin Haley reached the summit of Cerro Torre all alone. This was the first winter solo of Patagonia's stunning granite needle—and the culmination of a nearly 20-year dream for the American climber. In this episode, Jim Aikman shares an in-depth interview with Haley, along with commentary by Kelly Cordes (who completed a new route with Haley on the first of his ten trips up Cerro Torre, back in 2007) and Dougald MacDonald, editor of the American Alpine Journal. It's a story of patience, perseverance, and genuine mastery in high-level alpine climbing.

In June 2025, Ethan Berman, Sebastian Pelletti and Maarten van Haeren spent ten days climbing and descending the enormous Southeast Pillar of 7,388-meter Ultar Sar in Pakistan—a route that had defied attempts for more than 30 years. Armed with knowledge gained from their expedition to the same peak in 2024—and blessed with a lengthy weather window that arrived just as they completed acclimatization—the trio quickly reached a point higher than any prior team, climbing mostly at night. They then tackled the crux pillar at the top of the route over the next two and a half days and summited on day six out of base camp. The descent of the pillar required more than 70 rappels. To learn all about this landmark climb and the history of this difficult and dangerous mountain, Cutting Edge host Jim Aikman spoke with Ethan Berman and Maarten van Haeren, as well as Karakoram expert Steve Swenson and American Alpine Journal Editor Dougald MacDonald.

On their second attempt in two years, in April 2025, Anna Pfaff and Andres Marin completed a direct new route up the south face of Mt. Providence in the Alaska Range, this time with Tad McCrea as their climbing partner. The nearly 1,000-meter climb had difficulties on rock, ice and snow. For Pfaff, who lost six toes to frostbite on a nearby mountain in 2022, the summit was a form of redemption. And on Mt. Providence, all three climbers found large doses of good fortune and serendipity. Host Jim Aikman interviewed each of the climbers to capture this compelling story of the power of friendship, belief and kismet in the Alaska Range.

Three climbers from the U.S. spent nearly two months last summer in Baffin Island's Auyuittuq National Park, and they came away with three long new routes climbed in remarkable style. The trio went ultra-light (by Baffin standards) and packed only a double set of cams, one large cam, a fistful of hooks, 30 beak pitons, and a few bolts to climb more than 10,000 vertical feet of granite. In this episode, Jim Aikman talks with ace wall climbers Brandon Adams, Miles Fullman, and Sam Stuckey to learn all about their wilderness adventures, the meaning of modern aid, and what it's like to achieve a flow state while beaking and hooking.

In September, three young American climbers—August Franzen, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler—completed the first ascent of Yashkuk Sar I in northwest Pakistan. The 2,000-meter north pillar took five days to climb and descend, with challenges including precarious bivouacs, avalanches that forced them to find a new route in the middle of the climb, and crux mixed climbing at over 6,200 meters. For this episode, host Jim Aikman conducted an extensive interview with Wyoming climber Dane Steadman about this impressive ascent. Plus, alpinists Kelly Cordes and Graham Zimmerman, along with AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald, offer their perspectives on the unique challenges and attractions of climbing in the Karakoram.