Advertise on podcast: Written in Stone: Climbing History

SECRET STONERS!! I know I've been quiet over here, but I'm working and wanted to let you know where we are.

Bart Van Raaij is the owner of Bleau.info, the author of the popular 5+6 and 7+8 guides, and is obsessed with Fontainebleau. Since the 1980s he's visited Fontainebleau more than 400 times, despite living 6 hours away. In this episode, we hear the stories of his first time doing legendary boulders like Carnage, Berezina, Amok, and more. We discuss why he would choose to write a guide to a seemingly endless area so far from home, and why the history matters to him. Check out Bleau.info at https://bleau.info/ Find Bart's guides at https://www.7plus8.com/ ASSESS + IMPROVE YOUR MOVEMENT ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone-yt FREE BONUS EPISODES ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/secretstoners-yt

Jacky Godoffe joins me to chat about legends of Fontainebleau: Jerome Jean-Charles, Robert Paragot, Pierre Allain, Fred Nicole, and more. We hear the stories of his boulders Big Boss, Fatman, and C'Était Demain, as well as stories about Carnage, La Pierre Philosophale, La Merveille and more. ASSESS + IMPROVE YOUR MOVEMENT ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone-yt FREE BONUS EPISODES ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/secretstoners-yt

Efix and I sit down to chat about my time on The Thimble and bouldering in The Needles. We also discuss where we are with Fontainebleau and whether we stopped at the correct place or not.

A few thoughts that combine all of the things I spend time thinking about while I get together the Bleau interviews. The future of climbing difficulty isn't only about the size of holds or the distance between them. In fact, that's rarely what changes things. It's more about the climbers and their skills. ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove OVER 150 BONUS POWER COMPANY PODCAST EPISODES ➡️ https://patreon.com/powercompanypodcast MONTHLY CLIMBING THOUGHTS IN YOUR INBOX ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytcurrent BETTER UNDERSTANDING GRADES PLAYLIST ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/grades   DISCLAIMER: Climbing and training for climbing is inherently dangerous. Anything you do is at your own risk and Power Company Climbing and our coaches takes no responsibility.

EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone-yt FREE BONUS EPISODES ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/secretstoners-yt Bouldering began as a way to train for the mountains, but by the mid 1940s in Fontainebleau, it had started to form it's own identity. A Bleausard named Fred Bernick had an idea that would continue the tradition of preparing for those mountain routes: Circuits. He laid out the first two, and inspired by a piece of Fontainebleau history from the late 1800s, he marked them with painted arrows. They were instantly popular. 80 years later, there are over 370 of Bernick's circuits. Resources can be found at https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone Support the restoration of Fontainebleau: https://www.fondation-patrimoine.org/les-projets/sauvons-la-foret-de-fontainebleau-/105641 Music: "Sneaky Snitch" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Cello Concerto No. 1 in C Major, Hob. VIIb:1" Aspen Symphony Orchestra Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "écoutez ça" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Fariboles" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Rue Deperre" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "L'horloge du grand-père" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/

Reading of and commentary on an essay by Philippe Le Denmat published in Alpinist #12 from Autumn of 2005.

Reading of and commentary on an essay by Michele Libert published in Alpinist #12 from Autumn of 2005.

Reading of and commentary on an essay by Robert Paragot published in Alpinist #12 from Autumn of 2005.

In 1953, three articles were published in back to back issues of the French Alpine Club Bulletin, Paris-Chamonix Section. This is part three, in which Jean Vallet, a more recent addition to the Bleausard legacy, responds to Tony Vincent and Jeanine Truffaut's essays from the previous issues.

In 1953, three articles were published in back to back issues of the French Alpine Club Bulletin, Paris-Chamonix Section. This is part two, in which Jeanine Truffaut, a longtime Bleausard, responds to Tony Vincent's essay from the previous issue.

In 1953, three articles were published in back to back issues of the French Alpine Club Bulletin, Paris-Chamonix Section. This is part one, in which Tony Vincent, a longtime Bleausard, laments the inevitable loss of tradition in Fontainebleau.

WATCH THIS ON YOUTUBE Perhaps the most powerful force in the early years of Fontainebleau bouldering history was the consistent changing of the guard. Every few years a new group would supplant the old, bringing new ideas, updated ethics, and stronger fingers. But when a brash group of climbers, formed from the best of several groups, the difficulty standards of the previous leaders, Pierre Allain's Convicts of Cuvier, were left in the dust.  Led by Robert Paragot, a young climber who often wore only his PA's and his underwear and climbed while smoking a cigarette, this new group would do battle for several major projects, resulting in the world's first V6 (7A) boulder, The Joker.  And just as suddenly as they'd shown up, they'd disappear from Cuvier.  EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone-yt FREE BONUS EPISODES ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/secretstoners-yt Resources can be found at https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone Watch Paragot par Paragot: https://vimeo.com/465783740   Music: "Blue Eyed Baby" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Elle et Li" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Rue Deperré" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Ma Chanson Triste (Melancholie)" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Ambiance (In The Mood)" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Willie Dixon Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Divertissement dans une Fonderie" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Fou (Mad)" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Nerves and Fever" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "La-Da-Da-La-La" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/

A reading and breakdown of the essay "Initiation to the Mountains" by Georges Kogan from the 1953 French Alpine Club Paris-Chamonix Section Bulletin. The article is a hilarious parody of bouldering of the era. The image used was found in a later issue of the same bulletin, but definitely should have been used in the article.

WATCH THIS ON YOUTUBE Shortly after WWII, a new group formed in Fontainebleau. They called themselves the Cuvier Academic Club, but were quickly known as The Convicts of Cuvier. Led by Pierre Allain, René Ferlet, Guy Poullet and Jacques Poincenot, this group would raise standards in the forest with the first ascent of La Marie Rose, the first V3 (6A) in the world. EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone-yt FREE BONUS EPISODES ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/secretstoners-yt Resources can be found at https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone The Fontainebleau Boulder post mentioned in the video: https://www.instagram.com/p/DZ1sYqwDE6a/?img_index=1   Music: "Tel Quel (En Plein Sur le Nez)" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Willie Dixon Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Panassie Stomp" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Midi à Jalopi (12 O'Clock in Jalopi)" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Strictement pour les Persans (Strictly for the Persians)" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "That Blue-Eyed Baby From Memphis" Don Redman Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Mush Mouth" Claude Hopkins Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Joyeuse Fumée (Holy Smoke)" Alix Combelle Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/