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This week, the gentlemen behind Petermann Bédat join the show. We cover their early history, what it’s like working at Lange while not speaking German, challenges faced in starting their own brand, philosophy of their manufacture, and how they’re planning for the future. In addition, we discuss both Gaël and Bédat as collectors and lovers of watches and collectors—including their ultimate 3 watch collections and an Only Wrist. A huge thanks to Gaël Petermann & Florian Bédat for joining! Links Mentioned: Lange Young Watchmaker Program: https://press.alange-soehne.com/committed-to-the-next-generation-of-watchmakers/ 1967 Deadbeat Auction: https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/205470 2941 Article: https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html 1342 with Theo Auffret: https://www.onlywatch.com/petermann-bedat-auffret-paris Dominique Renaud: https://www.dominiquerenaud.com/en/home/ Googling Recently: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tank-a-guichets-prive-pink-gold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gronefeld-brings-back-its-four-greatest-hits-with-the-new-1941-quadrivium Last Watch that Floored Them in Person: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-xhevdet-rexhepi-minute-inerte https://xhevdetrexhepi.com/en 3 Watch Roll: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/209369 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/202611 https://wristaficionado.com/products/rolex-daytona-giraffe-126555tbr-rose-gold-chestnut-brown-diamond-dial-diamond-bezel-2025 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches/reference-2524-1-retailed-by-guebelin-a-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5959r-patek-philippe-split-seconds-monopusher https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisons Only Wrist: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mm https://laurentferrier.ch/collections/classic-origin/products/classic-origin-blue https://romaingauthier.com/en/news/introducing-the-new-c-by-romain-gauthier-titanium-edition-39.5/ https://www.ming.watch

This is the story of two watchmakers, Daniels & Smith, who kept British independent watchmaking alive prior to the phrase independent existing. This chronicle encompasses Daniel’s story from Army service until pocket watches, fascination with Breguet, the Clutton & automotive connection, selling the Co-Axial, his pocket watches, wristwatches, the story of his first meeting with Smith, Smith’s near-decade attempt to become his pupil, Smith’s history, and a complete catalogue of Smith’s wristwatches so far. Of course, this includes many meandering and many offshoots, as you’ve grown to expect. We hope you enjoy.  Links Mentioned: Pocket Watch Two: https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/185574 G W Daniels Chronometer: https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2017/watches-sale-l17054/lot.119.html 1924 Bentley 3-Litre: https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/pa26/lots/r0059-1924-bentley-3litre-speed-model-tourer-by-vanden-plas/ Cecil Clutton: https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/02/cecil-clutton-collector-profile.html Breguet 3862: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4278226 The Clutton Pocket Watch: https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/16-The-first-Daniels-owned-by-Clutton-completed-in-1969.-Image-SJX-compositeAntiquorum.jpg Edward Hornby: https://www.phillips.com/detail/george-daniels/NY080121/102 Atwood & Daniels: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/george-daniels-seth-atwood-documentary-roger-smith Space Traveller I: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/06/george-daniels-space-traveller-i-pocket-watch.html Space Traveller II: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/08/george-daniels-space-traveller-ii-science-museum.html Speedmaster Mark 4.5 Co-Axial Prototype: https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/07/news-omega-co-axial-exhibition-in-singapore-august-23-to-september-1.html Daniels Own Nautilus Prototype with a Co-Axial (Pictured Halfway Down this Article): https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patek George Daniel Datejust Prototype:  https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-a-customized-rolex-datejust-with-a-george-daniels-co-axial-escapement Wristwatches: https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/09/george-daniels-chronograph-wristwatch-tourbillon.html https://www.phillips.com/detail/george-daniels/174033 Roger in the Pocket Watch Number One Years: https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/67ae27a1e535f319ac00ecab/689c6d95f8fde73fbfa25703_1990-img-1.webp Pocket Watch Two: https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/185574 Cosigned Millenium: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i-2/millenium-number-01-a-unique-and-historically The Blue: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/unique-george-daniels-tourbillon-wristwatch-a-collected-man Roger W Smith Timeline: https://rwsmithwatches.com/evolution Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum https://hairspring.com/products/730-032-1815-tourbillon-pink-gold

This week, the tables have turned. Erik & Max polled you, the audience, for your opinions. Together, we find out what future classics you believe are being made today, how your views and actions in collecting have evolved over the last decade, independents that are your capturing interest, how you track or record your collection, how you’d theoretically build a 300k collection, and your deepest regrets around giving into hype or missing it entirely. This was a fascinating insight into our little group’s deep, sometimes controversial views on collecting.  Links Mentioned: Ludacris: https://www.movado.com/us/en/ludacris-x-bold-quest Your Future Classics: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans-rose-gold https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-34-lapis-lazuli-white-gold-1 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-daytona-le-mans-126529ln-review https://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-gold-1 https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/vacheron-constantin-cornes-de-vache-for-hodinkee https://hairspring.com/products/142-055-zeitwerk-lumen-honeygold https://hairspring.com/products/363-150-odysseus-honeygold https://hairspring.com/products/sp-one-platinum Your Independents Likely to Enjoy the Largest Rise Over the Next Decade: https://simonbrette.com/en/ https://www.berneron.ch https://www.rexheprexhepi.com https://rwsmithwatches.com https://petermann-bedat.com https://www.auffret-paris.com https://philippedufour.ch/en/ https://romaingauthier.com Single Reply Runners Up: https://www.instagram.com/qingan.official/?hl=en https://www.bexei.hu https://naoyahidawatch.com/?lang=en https://stephanepierre.com https://astrehler.ch https://go.davidcandaux.com https://sopranawatches.com https://www.ming.watch Collection Building Discussion: https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/oakley-watches/ https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-2-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/guillcohe-dial-47101-vacheron-constantin-historiques-chronograph https://www.analogshift.com/products/bulova-accutron-261-original-cushion-tv-as11348 https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steel https://hairspring.com/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giorgio_Galli_(watchmaker) https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/audemars-piguet-25548pt-quantieme-perpetuel-calendar-review https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-daymatic/ https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/octa-collection/octa-automatique-lune-havana https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/patek-philippe-5101p-10-day-tourbillon-review https://www.sinn.de/en/watches/556-i.html https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/08/berneron-quantieme-annuel-review.html https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-longines-conquest-1972-munich/ https://greubelforsey.com/en/collections/balancier/balancier-qm https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/186-0013-omega-equinoxe-reverso Only Wrist: https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-laurent-ferrier-classic-traveller-series-atelier-magnetic-green-hands-on-specs-price/ https://hairspring.com/products/5164a-aquanaut-travel-time-steel

This week Erik & Max are honored to be joined by founder of 37signals, thoughtful collector, and original thinker Jason Fried. While this episode briefly touches on Jason’s path as a collector, it’s spends more time on the philosophy of a meaningful business, knowing what doesn’t matter in design, what mades watches special to love, what defines craft, which watches were the least impressive in the metal, how the ability to sell permanence is linked to looking after your product, and so much more.  Links Mentioned: The MIH: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-elusive-mih-watch-up-for-grabs https://www.ablogtowatch.com/mih-watch-review/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-mih-gaia-watch 105.012: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-65-omega-speedmaster Steel Lange 1: https://langepedia.com/stainless-steel-a-lange-sohne/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-one-101026-steel (We were wrong around this timestamp Lange are at about 7,000 watches annually) Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/ Inline Patek QP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducing 90% of Astons are still on the road: https://www.carthrottle.com/news/90-cent-aston-martin-cars-ever-built-are-still-road Rapide: https://www.the-intercooler.com/library/blog/man-maths-aston-martin-rapide/ Lagonda: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-aston-martin-lagonda-3/ Resonance Pisa: https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/229536 T10: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinum Watch Jason is Googling Often: https://hairspring.com/products/sbgz005 Watch that Floored in Person: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/740-056-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-1 3 Watch Roll: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-st https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-gold https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinum Only Wrist: https://naoyahidawatch.com/new-release/nh-type-7a/?lang=en https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/heuer-3646-second-execution-autavia https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honeygold

This is the story of Danish watchmaking’s most storied name, a deep-dive chronicle to help collectors understand the very nuanced and convoluted history of Urban Jürgensen. This includes relevant backstory on Urban himself, a deep dive on Baumberger, Pratt, and the watches they made together—plus a look at what’s happening today under the Rosenfields and Venla with Kari Voutilainen. This episode focuses on wristwatches with particular attention given to the rise of the Pratt-Baumberger era, noting each reference in detail with points for collectors to come away from having learned something new: like how to take over Iceland.  Links Mentioned: Some Guides Worth Reading: https://revolutionwatch.com/a-retrospective-the-legacy-of-urban-jurgensen/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-then-and-now 19th-Century Pocket Watch: https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/urban-jurgensen-lot-299-87 Jules Jürgensen Pocket Watch Deconstruction: https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/deconstruction-jules-jurgensen Baumberger: https://quillandpad.com/2020/05/20/tribute-to-peter-baumberger-1939-2010-rip-you-complete-and-utter-bastard/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/05/peter-baumberger-urban-jurgensen-helmut-crott.html Pratt: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/derek-pratt-the-forgotten-watchmaker https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/getting-to-know-derek-pratt-the-watchmakers https://quillandpad.com/2018/07/14/the-life-and-times-of-legendary-independent-watchmaker-derek-pratt-archive/ H4: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/09/john-harrison-marine-chronometer-h4-diamond-pallets.html The Oval: https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/11/urban-jurgensen-derek-pratt-oval-pocket-watch.html https://www.phillips.com/detail/derek-pratt-for-urban-jurgensen/206983 https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded Wristwatches: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/urban-jurgensen-wristwatches Ref 1: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-1 Ref 2: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/213445 Ref 3: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/228974 Ref 5:  https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-5-platinum Ref 8: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-8 Repeater Tourbillon: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/228973 Great Podcast with Dr Helmut Crott: https://collectability.com/podcasts/interview-with-leading-horological-expert-and-pioneer-dr-helmut-crott/ Detent Escapement: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/145819 Alfred: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-the-alfred-hands-on The One: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-one-collection-introducing Urban Jürgensen Revival: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-urban-jurgensen-uj-1 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3755pt-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon-skeleton-platinum https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

Now 100 episodes in, this episode covers some reflections and lessons learned. This is all ahead of a full-sized Q&A with questions ranging from a two-watch 100k collection, time traveling to give yourself advice, market direction, non-indie brands carrying the torch for watchmaking, and many other topics. Plus, a fantastic Only Wrist for a linebacker. Links Mentioned: Total Unbiased FP Journe Market Update: https://www.phillips.com/article/what-now-for-f-p-journe-at-auction-phillips-new-york-june-2026 Rolex + Tudor: https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel https://hairspring.com/products/7928-eagle-beak-gilt-dial-submariner-steel https://hairspring.com/products/8171-padellone-yellow-gold_43285 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/daytona-john-player-special-reference-6241-a JDN: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jean-daniel-nicolas-two-minute-tourbillon https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/early-production-c187-daniel-roth-tourbillon-double-face Modern Patina:  https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/165511 https://www.fratellowatches.com/two-months-of-living-with-the-tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-silver/ Vintage up to 5K: https://www.rescapement.com/blog/for-your-reference-rolex-air-king-reference-5500 https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1018 https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/articles/ https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/168-017-linen-dial-omega-constellation-date https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-enicar-sherpa-jet-gmt Winnerl (Bernhard Zwinz): https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/striking-a-delicate-balance-tradition-and-innovation-in-modern-watchmaking-with-bernhard-zwinz-of-winnerl Some Contemporary Winners: https://hairspring.com/products/4300v-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-white-gold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-strike-one-titanium https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-blancpain-grande-double-sonnerie https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-classique-7225 https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/breguet-experimentale-1-magnetic-constant-force-escapement.html Pre-Daytona vs Daytona: https://hairspring.com/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1 https://hairspring.com/products/daytona-steel https://hairspring.com/products/6264-paul-newman-daytona-steel Independents: https://hairspring.com/products/mirage-38-sienna-yellow-gold-2 https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/11/petermann-bedat-1967-deadbeat-seconds-review.html https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-petermann-bedat-1825 https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-regulator-dial-decimal-repeater-piece-unique.html 2-Collection: https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/7159-0-tudor-monte-carlo https://hairspring.com/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinum https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum Jay-Z: https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/culturecheck/inside-jay-zs-watch-collection Bankrupt Indies: https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/hyt-files-for-bankruptcy-1234599628/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/02/rj-romain-jerome-bankrupt.html https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/brief-history-urban-jurgensen Only Wrist: https://mrwatchley.com/collections/watches/products/pascal-coyon-series-2-unique-piece-enamel-dial-with-breguet-numerals https://www.acollectedman.com/products/cartier-tortue-minute-repeater-2512c-white-gold

From things that came before the 2215 Chronometer to 43040s and repeaters, this episode covers all the quirky Vacheron Constantins that normally aren’t discussed—including a semantics argument of what is and isn’t a Cornes de Vache. If the more alternative side of VC has ever called to you, here is a broad overview of some areas that may be worth attention.  Links Mentioned: Keith Mitchell TW: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/keith-mitchell-talking-watches 333: https://www.iconeek.com/auction-lot/vacheron-constantin-333-automatic-333-re_53e43b99be 2045: https://www.stephaniewindsor.com/products/vacheron-constantin https://www.bonhams.com/auction/21934/lot/195/vacheron-constantin-a-fine-18ct-white-gold-bracelet-watch-with-mint-green-dial-made-for-the-libyan-market-ref2045-circa-1976/ 4072: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/vacheron-constantin-reference-4072 https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/127999 4178: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/159992 49002: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt 43040: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jump-hour-43040-yellow-gold-1 6087: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901 4764 ‘Cioccolatone’: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901 6562: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-steel-automatic-watch-ref-6562 6111: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/223633 2215: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2215-vacheron-constantin-royal-chronometer-1 https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/ronnie-fieg 43031: https://hairspring.com/products/43031-perpetual-calendar-guilloche-dial-platinum 43032: https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum Don Pancho: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/125233 4261: https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/03/vacheron-constantin-minute-repeater-4261-les-collectionneurs.html 6448: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/176180 ‘Renaissance’: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-platinum-renaissance-ref-92084-incoming?srsltid=AfmBOoqbwD5TY11FkcNSn7gSE0KMsg9fakqtpPWifw1UEGgq1vTale2U 43050: https://hairspring.com/products/43050-mercator-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/enamel-taiwan-dial-43050-vacheron-constantin-mercator https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394747 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5758993 Harmony: https://rarist.pl/en/products/harmony-71201-saudi-arabia Serpenti: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-tubogas-snake-watch-retailed-by-bulgari 30030: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minute Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/229790 https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/226230

Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen.  Cleguer: https://cleguer.com/en-gb https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cleguer-debuts-the-inspiration-one-with-a-proprietary-innate-escapement https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/05/cleguer-inspiration-one-review.html https://revolutionwatch.com/mathieu-cleguer-makes-his-debut-with-the-inspiration-one-souscription/ Stéphane Pierre: https://stephanepierre.com https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-stephane-pierre-limpetrant https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/04/stephane-pierre-l-impetrant.html Dann Phimphrachanh: https://www.instagram.com/dann.phimphrachanh/?hl=en https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/08/dann-phimphrachanh-profile.html https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/an-afternoon-with-dann-phimphrachanh https://sfwatchlover.substack.com/p/an-exclusive-profile-of-dann-phimphrachanh Alan Birchall: https://www.a-birchall.com https://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-alan-birchall-independent-watchmaker-piece-d-essai-no-00-artisanal-watchmaking/ https://www.isochrono.com/p/inside-tajimi-watching-a-handmade Kallinich Claeys: https://www.kallinichclaeys.com/en https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-visit-to-glashuttes-newest-independent L’Atelier Bernhard: https://www.instagram.com/l_atelier_bernard/?hl=en https://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-atelier-bernard-the-owl-bernard-van-ormelingen-bernard-braboretz-independent-watchmaking-duplex-escapement-interview/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.html Hazemann & Monnin: https://hazemann-monnin.ch/en/index.html https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monnin Christian Lass: https://www.instagram.com/christian_lass/ https://christianlass.dk Fam al Hut: https://www.famalhut.com/en/index.html Mineroci: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-mineroci Bonniksen Le Carrousel: https://monochrome-watches.com/announcing-naissance-une-montre-4-carrousel-project-bonniksen-aeon-foundation-news/ Only Wrist: http://www.hajimeasaoka.com/timepieces_chrinograph_EN.html https://monochrome-watches.com/just-because-logan-kuan-rao-double-detent-escapement-prototype-unique-piece-chinese-indepenent-watchmaker/ https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-gold https://thekeystone.com/products/audemars-piguet-platinum-jump-hour-minute-repeater-watch-ref-25723

While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here.  University of Utah Hot on Journe?: https://shorturl.at/cSCXN 6538 at Sotheby’s: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainless Petermann Bédat 2941: https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html Pinaud Chronograph: https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com/the-monopoussoir-chronograph/ LeComte: https://monochrome-watches.com/florent-lecomte-a-recently-discovered-gem-of-independent-watchmaking/ A bit on Akrivia and MHC/BNB Concept: https://revolutionwatch.com/the-three-kings-of-independent-watchmaking/ Famous Lange Service 17K Bill: https://www.reddit.com/r/ALangeSohne/comments/1gmdmha/17k_service_bill/ 3970: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3970ep-small-hallmark-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum 3940: https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum Auctions Primer: https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/buying-watch-auction-guide 881101/01 Clapton: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/881101-01-clapton-universal-geneve-tri-compax Patek’s March to Silicon: https://collectability.com/learn/patek-philippe-advanced-research-made-simple/ Rolex Silicon: https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-dynapulse-escapement-in-depth-technical-explanation-5hz-calibre-7135-syloxi-hairspring-review/ A Great Moonphase Read: https://jackforster.substack.com/p/challenge-to-watchmakers-whos-up Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/h11-central-balance-blue-dial-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/products/insight-micro-rotor-titanium https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today.  Links Mentioned:  Arkansas: https://crystalbridges.org 6105G: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-001 5170: https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold 5172: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photos Tamara Ralph: https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/ap-x-tamara-ralph.html 15202: https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A.html VC 56: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-fiftysix-self-winding VC Quai de L’Île: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-quai-de-lile-in-steel Cabaret: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-cabaret-tourbillon-in-honeygold Saxonia: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia/ NYC Watch Guy’s Analysis: https://medium.com/@nycwatchguys/the-bull-case-for-watches-9a56450baf1e @Niccoloy: https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/ @Young.Brando: https://www.instagram.com/young.brando/ WatchCharts (Hit Max Timeline): https://watchcharts.com/watches/indexes?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email 5251 Portofino: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5251-iwc-portofino-moonphase UJ: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-8-yellow-gold 5020: https://www.phillips.com/article/133156594/patek-philippe-5020-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-guide John Shaeffer: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/205999 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/201306 Tank Monopoussoir: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cartier-cpcp-2846-tank-monopoussoir Hamatic: https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-moritz-grossmann-hamatic-argente-pendulum-winding-calibre-106-saxony-glashutte-rose-gold-specs-price-review/ 1463: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/122018 5070:  https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-5070g-014-patek-philippe-chronograph PLM: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/ 1675: https://hairspring.com/products/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel Odysseus: https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel Deadbeat Seconds: https://thedeadbeatseconds.substack.com Grantland: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grantland Look at my *Expletive* Red Trousers: https://lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.com 1815 Thin Honey: https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar 5270: https://hairspring.com/products/5270r 5374: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5374g-001 Independent Picks: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-prussian-blue-white-gold-1 https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/205470 2RE: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ferdinand-berthoud-fb-2re-1 Handmade: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/01/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-review.html 6238: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1 Sports Betting: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677 https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titanium https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel

Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the way.  Links Mentioned:  https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/manufacture/news-and-events/gunter-blumlein The Richemont Umbrella: https://www.richemont.com Fabian Krone Interview: https://people.timezone.com/mdisher/lange/fkint/fkinterview.htm Anthony de Haas Interviews: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/history-a-lange-sohne-anthony-de-hass https://revolutionwatch.com/lange-sohne-anthony-de-haas-zeitwerk-minute-repeater/ Tino Bobe Interviews: https://yachtstyle.co/a-lange-sohnes-tino-bobe-on-keeping-time-with-tradition/ https://escapementmagazine.com/articles/tino-bobe-a-lange-sohne/ https://www.luxuo.com/leaders/watches-leaders/securing-the-future.html Krone-Era Watches: Lange 1 Tourbillon: https://hairspring.com/products/704-025-lange-1-tourbillon-platinum https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-tourbillon/ Langematik QP: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/310-021-langematik-perpetual-calendar-yellow-gold Double Split: https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-double-split-rattrapante/ Tourbograph PLM: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/141658 Zeitwerk Story: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum-1 https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/10/lange-zeitwerk-guide.html Wilhelm Schmid Interviews: https://oracleoftime.com/a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-interview/ https://www.watchpro.com/the-big-interview-a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid/ https://squaremile.com/watches/wilhelm-schmid-ceo-lange-sohne-interview/ https://www.watchonista.com/articles/interviews/chat-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-about-numbers-community-and-luxury-retail Datograph U/D: https://hairspring.com/products/405-035-datograph-up-down-platinum Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-tourbillon-lumen Grand Comp: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/grand-complication https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication 2015 New Manufacture: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-opens-new-manufactory-building Triple Split: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-triple-split-introducing Odysseus: https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-odysseus/ Distribution: https://revolutionwatch.com/a-lange-sohne-salons-boutiques/ Honey Gold: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/honey-gold-watches Lumen: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/lumen Handwerkskunst: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/handwerkskunst-editions Favorites: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-gold https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/176317 https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange-in-750-honeygold-706-050 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-i-2/lange-1-leon-martens-maastricht-reference-101-047 https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/153737  Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinum https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/167254

Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on as five lots are each picked with a bet value to be achieved estimated (this was recorded May 5) ahead of time—and an over/under from the opposing host. Plus, an Only Wrist for the 90s lovers.  Links Mentioned:  The Three Sales in Question: https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601 https://www.christies.com/en/auction/rare-watches-31080/ The PLM Result over 1M: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-4/tourbillon-pour-le-merite-reference-701-007-a Prototype Urban Jurgensen: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jürgensen/231710 Prototype AP: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584403 https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226 Sports Betting: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677 https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401 Highest Hammer Relative to Estimate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232384 https://www.phillips.com/detail/f.p.-journe/229223 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191622 Wildcard That Could be 1/3 or 3X Estimate: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584504 Case Patina: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191674 Cleaned 1526: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191577 5007P: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232263 Only Wrist: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6139093 https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/passion-time-important-private-collection-watches-timepieces-online/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-royal-oak-moon-phases-2237/201101

Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider.  Links Mentioned:  Winners: Streamliner 34: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mm Streamliner QP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-moser-streamliner-perpetual-concept Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel Saxonia Annual 36: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-downsizes-the-saxonia-annual-calendar-to-36mm Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold Lange 1 Tourbillon QP Lumen: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-lange-1-tourbillon-perpetual-calendar-lumen Precious OP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-goes-full-solid-gold-in-34mm-and-28mm-ref-124205-and-276208 Alternate: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch Enamel Daytona: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-126502-in-rolesium-with-enamel-dial-and-grey-bezel Alternate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/128046 VC: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-2500v https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-dual-time-cardinal-points Alternate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/225008 RRCHF: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rexhep-rexhepi-chronograph-flyback-rrchf Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-gold Blunders: 6105G: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6105g Alternate: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2577r-calatrava-enamel-dial-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/products/anywhere-aurora-titanium IWC Vertical Drive: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-heads-for-space-with-the-pilots-venturer-vertical-drive-with-spaceflight-qualification-from-vast https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/about-us/unvrs/freak-2001 https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/jaeger-lecoultre-amvox-q192t440-10-10-jlc-yzr0es Alternate: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-66-omega-speedmaster Cartier: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-celebrates-10-editions-of-prive-with-six-new-editions Alternate: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2396-cartier-cpcp-monopoussoir JLC Master Control Chronometre: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-chronometre-a-new-integrated-bracelet-sport-watch-in-three-model Alternate: https://www.berneron.ch/quantieme-annuel-black https://hairspring.com/products/25654st-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-salmon-dial-steel Only Wrist: Grahame Fowler: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-grahame-fowler MN: https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel Langematik: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-langematik/

Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only Wrist for a train conductor.  Links Mentioned:  Early Daniels Escapements in Normal Watches: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patek https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/george-daniels-so-l12313/lot.21.html Scott Carpenter History: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/scott-carpenters-breitling-cosmonaute-the-first-swiss-wristwatch-worn-in-space Artemis II Watches: https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/watches-artemis-ii-moon-omega-speedmaster-breiting Walter Lange: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-homage-to-walter-lange/ Round Pusher Vichet 2499: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/12/patek-philippe-2499-vichet-case-round-pushers.html Theft of the Marie Antoinette: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-time-thief-who-stole-106-rare-clocks-in-a-daring-heist-180981979/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naaman_Diller Rolex QP: https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/ https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-prototype-oysterquartz-lot-329-378 (Most Recent Sale)  *Modified Datejust QP was allegedly Muller not Dubuis, we messed up! 1921 Vacheron True Heritage: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-original-vacheron-constantin-american-1921-from-1919 New 1921: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose Reconstructed in Traditional Method:  https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-piece-unique-vacheron-is-proof-that-sometimes-they-do-make-em-like-they-used-to HR Ekegren: https://obwcollection.com/products/h-r-ekegren-minute-repeater-wristwatch 1735: https://www.watchprosite.com/blancpain/more-on-the-iconic-blancpain-1735/4.1185931.9517651/ Piaget Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie: https://www.phillips.com/article/158023235/when-fp-journe-worked-with-piaget 4113: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/133343?fromSearch=4113 Offshore: https://www.phillips.com/article/37249232/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-the-man-who-made-it-and-the-watch-that-honours-it Carl Jung: https://monochrome-watches.com/a-most-dangerous-watch-company-iwc-and-carl-jung/ IWC 3519: https://revolutionwatch.com/special-service-the-iwc-porsche-design-ref-3519-amag/ The Most Confusing Broad Arrow: https://www.casowatches.com/catalogo/seamaster-ref-14755-61/ Roubert-Houdin: https://www.horloger.net/purchase-sales/mystery-clocks/74-robert-houdin-triple-mystery-clock/ https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-enchanting-allure-of-cartiers-mystery-clocks 6062 Cosmograph Ad: https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2012/03/rolex-cosmograph-moonphase-1957.html#/page/2 5738/1R: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-1r-001 Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/125546 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-1958 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-past-present-and-future-of-the-rolex-milgauss https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189354?fromSearch=1019

A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here.  Links Mentioned:  Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs: https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/ Jean Toutin: https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/ Miklos Merczel JLC: https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/ Daniel Quare: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare Grand Feu: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1 https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241 Cloisonné: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33 https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.html https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.html https://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-category https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCc Champlevé: https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/ https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dial https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001 Flinqué: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-is https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.html https://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinum Engraved Enamel: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china Favorites: 2526: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold 6101: https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/ 2523 Gobbi: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html 2699 Constellation: https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch 3428P: https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/ 1415: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=1415 5231: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001 Only Wrist: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/ https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895